Sunday, January 12, 2014

Shirt from a shirt


Recently, I cannot make a buttonhole on my machine to save my soul anymore. It's all out of sequence and it needs a tune up, but I'm broke and have no time to spare.

So, what if.... I make a shirt with a standup drape collar and use a huge men's shirt and use the button placket that's already there? I can usually get better fabric in shirts from the thrift store, and this Alexander Julian poly/cotton is a great example. And six bucks? You'd be crazy not to do it.

My hands are not blue. My eyes are.
It's not like I'm saving myself any time, I have to remove any pockets and hope the stitchline doesn't show when I'm making it up.

I do have a recent sloper from the pleated shirt.... 

Tracing for alterations

 All it needs are some adjustments for ease and a collar. And maybe I move the dart from the side to the top shoulder seam and make it a pleat....

Darts on the move

Slash pattern at new dart, pivot piece to close side dart. Tape!
Add fill to new dart so pattern piece does not tear

Adding collar extension at top center of piece
I need to match up the length below the waist (where this sloper stops)


Carving it up very carefully. I may need every inch (I have done this surgery before, I know me all too well, I make too many unplanned-for changes on the fly)
I'm using the sleeve placket, mostly for detail. It will be closed at the bottom by a band.

I'm going to use the rolled hem as much as possible. In theory, I am, anyway.

 Trying to match thread to what I have; this is a good representation of the color,

Line up the collar to the back seam (I have left out some less interesting moments in construction along the way)



Added a bit of scrap, pre-shrunk ribbon to cover exposed seam



And back to the bottom of the sleeve






 And now I have to stop.  I have quite the cold going.

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Thanks thanks thanks. Together, we can make more better makes. You know what I mean, clever you!