Monday, September 18, 2017

Tastes Like Chicken Costume Edition 2017

This time of year, there is always much amusement for me in licensing of costume patterns.
I'll make believe this is not Belle. Or Elsa. from the McCalls catalog, in Joanns, this morning.

Do I really want to rehash this issue? I mean, it cracks me up that we pretend that McCalls and Vogue and Butterick are three different companies.
Oops. KwikSew too.
Further down that page

CSS Industries is....

What they are not, is Disney.

If you really want a rabbit hole of girly

Getting back to our real/faux mix of branded/licensed goods, Simplicity once again tops the entertainment pile.

They have a heady mix of official and unofficial costume pattern work.  
Sometimes both in one run (Retro and Regular Wonder Woman is licensed, Plus size Wonder Woman is not. Grateful she's there at all I guess. New Wonder Woman from the film is not a licensed pattern option)
She only got to size 16. I assume there's a lot of corset/gauntlet work going on out there in the workrooms, getting ready for the national holiday. I was a little surprised Yaya Han doesn't have a WWinspired  set.

 Simplicity's site is a wonderland. I do love that they've gone big for Lolita costumes (and I don't mean Nabokov). I personally am saving up for the Star Trek skant.

But this leaves me speechless.

For your consideration,

and over here:
Click on the photos to enlarge to inspect the deets.

Ralph Pink Battlesuit

The construction is different, therefore the written instructions are different.  And I have been led to believe by my lawyer friends that unless you file a patent on the process, the instructions are copyright protected, the illustrations are not.  Note: please see comments below for correction to this statement.

I have a great capacity to be pissed off for other people.  And that thing about 'you only really get a week before someone steals your idea' is true. Any expectation of a perpetual exclusive royalty is only available to an international organization with the ability and scope and MONEY to determine copyright law.

Sunday, September 10, 2017

What Not To Read: Advertising Links

I love the advertising brochures on the ferry boats.  Yes, we have legal weed in Washington. And Teatro moved to the eastside 

The internet is full of wonders. And advertising, because baby needs a new pair of shoes. 

I don't carry ads on this blog. This is no shade on anyone that does; I used to participate in a Mom/Dad Blog group that did embed ads, and I think over the course of the years I got....a dollar.  

What stops me is clickbait. You know, you click on the blog page, you click on a picture, and suddenly a host of pop up windows open like a swarm of locusts. My goal on this blog is to be as easy to read as possible, and as nonannoying as one can be when one is me. Therefore, I don't do the ads. I have links to my shops on Spoonflower and Craftsy and that's annoying enough. Also why I don't keep comments with ad links. Or comments from bots. Bots don't sew for themselves. Yet. 
This ad is right next to the regular content download button. Guess which one pulses? 

The website at work has Google Ad Sense links that inevitably screw some poor bastard up, because you cannot choose AdSense ads, you can only complain about them. Knock down one pulsing "Download Now" button next to your more sedate "Download" button (for content the user paid for), and another three appear. A real part of my job is just using the website to patrol for this stuff. 

I subscribe to and participate in Bloglovin' because it's handy. Several times a week, it sends out a roundup of style blogs, which I never go look at. For this post, however, I did click on one (and it doesn't matter which frankly, but it was about styling with sneakers) and the page won't stop loading. I have Ghostery on my browser, so I can see what inbedded ad trackers there are (because I do analytics on pages and I love to see what people are using) and that purple list is longer than the page is tall. 

The worst is Threads. Love you guys, but to watch the videos, I have to turn off Ghostery, and that means I open the door to the pop ups.

At the bottom of the Threads webpage,  there's two rows of photo links. The second row is Threads material from the same website. The first row is all faux stories/clickbait.

Reader: I fell for it.

And this is embarassing, because you've heard about this one: What Mature* Women Shouldn't Wear

From the website: It’s great when we feel much younger than we are. But it’s not great when it appears we are trying to look a whole lot younger—and not pulling it off! Sometimes we need to come to terms with our stage in life and begin to dress more appropriately. That’s not to say that we can’t have fun, but there’s nothing more aging (and embarrassing) than wearing trends that make you look silly at your age.

If you want to be classy and mature with grace, try avoiding these trends in this slideshow.

1. DANGEROUS DENIM: Low Rise, Bedazzled, Flared, Super Skinny Jeans

2. SEXY STILETTOS: Hooker Heels, Stripper Shoes
3. Silly socks
4 .Tacky tshirts
5 -   -  at this point, every time I click on the slide show, the site starts to add more popup windows, and I do not care for that sort of shenanigan. I love my tacky tshirts. Who are you, my mother? Oh no, you're an advertising farm. And no, grace is not in my rubric.

Hey, edited here! I went onto Threads just now and they have labeled those two rows of content, so that they are clearly identified as fish and foul. But check it out! 70 trackers! And the page keeps reloading and reloading so that it does not remain static. It's almost self-clicking.

On this topic: go read I Will Wear What I Like.  I love you, Man Repeller, but there is no such thing as Menocore (although the comments are a crackup). Don't fall for the bullshit. Get in on Visible Mondays. And of course, read Anne at Spygirl (keeping her in the roll as she belongs)

Wear what you want. If you wear it with your whole heart, you'll be amazing. 

There ya go. No ads. All links are clean, no subroutines, and hand pulled for freshness. 

*well of course. Mature? Me? 58, yes. Mature? Hell, no.
I have two trackers (I don't run Google ads and I don't know why that's there) and there they are. Technorati is eulogized here. If it's dead, why is this still here? Will report later. Gotta go mend some stuff)

Sunday, September 3, 2017

Summer Sundress, finale 2017

Sometimes, an idea just floats around and everyone takes a bite of it. I've done it. A few years ago, I made this sundress.
The Honeycomb Hideout Tardis Effect

this is the rough pattern piece layout plus photo. I was going to be short on yardage, so I traced off the top and cut it on the bias so I could fit it on what I had.. 
Mine does not overlap the pieces at the top like 'Given A Chance', but it does bear a 'classic housedress' resemblance that is more than passing to me.  I'm sure we're all pulling from some ur-dress that birthed them all.
I know there is a far far older version of this kind of dress, but I can't seem to find a pattern for it right now. I will come back to this and fix it when I find it.

 And it doesn't have the nifty neck feature from 'Cat's Cradle'

So as this summer's sundress finale, I decided I should kluge the three and create the "Given a Cat's Cradle's Chance it's Lucha Libre" dress.

Professor F's blog is entirely responsible for the purchase of this fabric, the Alexander Henry Lucha Libre print. It's a huge repeat with a lot of pop. And shirtless wrestlers.

They are large shirtless men on pockets.

Big prints are fun, but you lose any pattern details right away. So  I bought some vaguely color coordinating fabrics to pick them out a bit. 
Our key word is vaguely.

There's the split bodice, with tasteful appliques from the larger print, on a fat quarter of True Colors Lazy Stripe/Tula Pink and a half yard of Philip Jacobs Spiral Shells/Rowan, both from Pacific Fabrics.
I did not use ribbon for the fancy framing. I made quarterfold binding ongrain (cutting the facing on the bias) so I could continue the overly busy color combo.

I needed to unpick and resew the binding. Head grew unexpectedly.

The front applique and binding. 

and the back.

 I fused and cut out and fused again for the lettering, and then went around them with a medium density zig zag stitch.

It's....busy. This room needs cleaning.
My kitchen needs cleaning too.

No full size fashion shots. Family does not want to take photos of me in this dress,  something about 'too busy to be looked at with naked eye'

At the end of the summer, I just wanted to go out with a bang. Work wraps up this week, and then we go back to the girl choir hems.
Ya know, grey chiffon.
Also the Refashioners 2017 Suits You challenge. 
See ya sooner.

Saturday, August 26, 2017

Two Pencil Holders: An inadvertent tribute to Paint

So, I'm watching an Adam Savage "Tested" video on his channel on YouTube, another 'one day build', on making a traveling tape case 
(ok, so if you use a lot of gaff tape, you'll get this)

 but YO! 
Stop the video! 

DAMN! It's a pencil flap on the cap!

The glasses I wear make putting a pencil behind my ear troublesome.

You can see this in action at this point in the video:

check out the side of her hat (closest to left hand corner, her right side of her head)

It's an added on flap.

Kinda like this:
Sew a flap, and attach a snap to one end. Sew the other end of the flap to the inside of the cap on the side (maybe right by the brim like in the photo) and attach the reciprocating snap part to the outside so the flap folds up over a pencil and snugs it up. 

Or like the penloop for the notebook.
I've never posted this?
Apparently I haven't. If I have, forgive the repetition.

a. Sew a loop of wide elastic to just fit the notebook.  b.Sew a smaller loop to it to just hold the pencil in question.
  c. It could be a pen. I'm not a bigot.

Would this be easier to use with elastic in the flap OR just sew on a loop of elastic to the hat?
The loop of fabric would be like a funnel to the grippy part, make it a 'not looking, shoves pencil into  loop and it stays' thing. This would be good for slippery fabrics.

Or maybe you just make a flap with magnets (aiming the right way) and you can 'clip' it over the cap or the book and it would hold a pen to either one?

What would I do without Paint?
Learn Gimp or Inkscape.
Sigh! Microsoft, you are abandoning ME. Your last defender in this household. Paint is a damn fine tool. Paint3D is a toy. I'll maintain a legacy machine to keep it going.

You know, life is like a trip to the hardware store. It's  aisles of happy potential, and the fail line at the returns counter.
I am trying to look at it as the happy potential.

Sunday, August 13, 2017

Last Minute Pocket Mending

I'm taking a break from weeping over my son returning to college by posting this. It was a mend that should have been done when he came home at the beginning of the summer, but it took five minutes altogether anyway.

There's a hole at the bottom of the pocket in the lined jacket.

Open up the lining enough to reach in

Pull it out through the hole

Stitch it up with pink thread because no one will see it

Reinforce the pocket on the other side while you have the patient open
Action shot!

Grab threaded needle from collection of pre-threaded needles you've stored (from the lengths of thread removed from the sewing machine while changing colors - do a little righteous dance here). Did I mention that's an emery strawberry, so they are sharpened too?
(oh, am I full of myself here? Sigh. Yes.)

Stitched up. 

You're welcome.

Sunday, July 30, 2017

Wrap dress / yukata remodel

I've been wanting another wrap jacket. 
 I used to have a Saf T Pockets Journey jacket (version one, in black crepe polyester) that I wore every day to work, and sadly terminally ventilated in a smoking accident 
(quit three years ago this spring).
Smoking is dangerous, kids!

I guess the best description is a woven cardigan.
The knit ones get saggy in the pockets eventually.
And I am all about the pockets
I have a Bryn Walker cream linen one, without pockets.
Haven't figured out how to add pockets to it yet.
Bonus points for promotional giveaway yukata from Yomiuri Giants that spouse got at baseball game back in the 80s.
Boy, we've beaten that Ikea duvet cover to bits

I was drafting a pattern for a yukata that I made for Thing Two (Formerly Blondini), 

and while looking for that linen wrap for a model, found this black thing and there was my material.

I worked too fast for photos, but generally this was a Bryn Walker sleeveless asymmetrical lightweight black linen wrap dress, that just gaped and I never wore it.
Like this one, but in black.

So I will make it be what I want.

I cut off the skirt for yardage.

I picked out and let down the hem, and had enough for sleeves (it was really long).(go back and look at that photo. There's a lot of fabric if you cut it at the hipline) (I'm short)

 I think most of this project involved unpicking seams. 
That does seem to be the alteration job. If you can enjoy picking out hundreds of stitches, you have a future in alterations.
I love my seam ripper. Search on Etsy or Ebay for seam ripper. The points on these (parts from Penn State Industries) are forged stainless steel. Yum!

Attached sleeves 
Black does not photograph well. It just doesn't.


Lengthened the sleeves (and gave them a weightier hem) with black linen with white thread plaid (thanks Pac Fabrics for enabling my shopping experience by being open after work!)
Sort of an homage to the foldy sleeves on this

but not quite this

And added more of the same as a weightier hem (camouflage for polka dot interior pockets)

I'm making the usual zipper foldover pockets. Sewn separately and stitched into the side seam and tacked in to the body/plaid hem fabric. They will be covered by that plaid hem material at their bases. plaid is so light absorbent, I could topstitch on it and it would not show. but the bulk of the pocket contents would.
Made pockets

Glued and sewn zipper stop ends

Lined it up with the side seam and machine stitched it

Folded up the hem over it

Handstitched hem over pocket

I look weird to me without my glasses. And yes, it needs ironing. Hey, I ironed the sewn parts!
Wearing results: the side pockets are too far to the sides, so I will jimmy some more in a little closer to the front. Otherwise it works well. Sleeves are long enough for warmth, short enough for driving. Spreads wide enough to 'dibs' two seats at the  Ballyhoo performance of "Spring Awakening"
Ah, the other reason why I didn't wear it: it was always deeply wrinkled. Well, now it will be
charmingly deeply wrinkled.

And I'll wear it to work. Cause it gets chilly in the office in the morning, before the server heats it up. 
And then it's Otter Pop and bathing suit time.