Tuesday, April 8, 2014

Purse Pen Pocket (hinge pocket)

Nestled in the corner, another pocket. Or is it lurking?

Yes, I have a pocket problem 
(took me a minute to type 'prob//, no, it's not a problem! It's a series of tutorials! Yeah!)

I got tired of hunting in the bottom of the purse for a pencil, a pen, a pointy thing. And I just couldn't figure out where to add one.

Until I pulled out the lining mending the zipper.

So, make a long pouch (make it wider than one pen. I went for three inches wide, folded over to an inch and a half / 5 cm.

Stitch up the bottom and the open side. 
Find that long seam in the lining, and fold it out so it's an edge.

Sew your pouch edge to that edge. I didn't even take out the content tag.

I tacked the lining down when I was done. I swear, most of my stuff is better sewn when I'm done with it. I'm like my dad; I'm a remodeler.

I am thinking this is going to show up again somewhere else. A hinge pocket could be great, could be a big pain, we'll see where it lands.

Wednesday, April 2, 2014

Free Sloper Patterns Still Exist

It has come to my attention (my email from BurdaStyle for today) that the era of the free and easily acquired bodice sloper is over. Yes, the JJ multisized sloper is gone, replaced by single size models, mostly for $.

I am very fond of Ralph Pink, and today I am fonder. He seems to be the last bastion of the freebie, and quite the set there is. Womenswear has skirt, dress, bodice, trousers (all sized 10). Menswear is jacket, shirt, and something called an "Overgarment".

Okay, I had trouble figuring it out myself. And it's a little puzzling to open and print, but pretty much, you need Adobe Reader and WINzip (to decompress the files), both freeware that have links on the same dang page.

Yes, the womens are in size 10. Yes, you can get this to work for you, without enlarging it after you've learned Photoshop or Illustrator (I am pulling my hairs doing that in my other spare time).

This situation offends me (no snaps to Ralph Pink, who never offends me). Slopers should be free. You have to put so much work into them, the basic layout should be a freebie.

I'm going to get to work on this.

In the meantime

Tuesday, March 25, 2014

Collette Snippets March 25th

Argggg. There are two things I hate about my Bernina sewing machine. One is the thread slot on the right side, where I unthread as I slide my fabric into place.

The other is thread nesting.  Beginning of seam is a mass of thread loops on the underside, and messed up tension through the seam. A tune up helps ($170 before tax without parts in Seattle), as does redoing the tension in the bobbin (free but hard to get right). 

I cannot hold the thread, the fabric, check the seam allowance AND slide the piece in at the same time.

One thing that does help me find the top thread, is clipping a wonderclip (the little Clover ones) onto the end of the top thread when I cut the threads from the previous seam. If this seems a little precious and overdone,

you have never heard me swear.

Today's Colettle Patterns Snippet isn't from me, but it sure tells my story.

I cannot link to this page properly. So here is the link to Colletterie weekly snippets sign up page

For one, it's not the bobbin thread nesting; it's the top thread. The top thread should not be dragged into the bobbin threads at the start of the seam. I am pretty sure it's the machine timing being out of whack, but it is quite the @#$### if you are working with chiffon.

That said, this is a good trick for getting sheers to track at the beginning of the seam; it's like steering from the direction you are going.

Which makes me wonder if I've screwed up the feed/bobbin tension BY doing this. A self fulfilling prophecy? The more I do it, the worse it gets?


photo from Kenneth King's Jean-ius! Craftsy class
And here's Kenneth King pulling his damn threads back at the start of a seam.

Why, lord, why have you afflicted us so?