v2127 Miyake instructions and results so far

 I am working on a separate blog about Issey Miyake's Vogue patterns. I have been at it for a couple of years, so don't get all excited.

I know that there have been several designers from Miyake's 'house' on the job for these patterns over the years, I don't know all of them yet. There is much more information out there than I have included (which is why these are still in progress), but for my sanity's sake, I am starting to put these posts on my main blog. Because this is what I am sewing now, and this proves that this is STILL a blog about sewing.

I have shown bits and pieces of the construction of this top, but it's been put in the naughty pile while other things got done.

Let's see what happened.

I learned on Miyake Vogue 1309 to mark all the tailors marks, no matter what they might be.

I made this into a dress

https://erniekdesigns.blogspot.com/2013/04/miyake-dress-1309.html

For v2127, there were only three different ones on the ten pattern pieces, so I just went with light blue for dots, pink for squares, and hot pink for triangles.

Or was it pink for triangles....it worked. They were pretty straightforward.

These are triangles, I know that

Ah, the squares are hot pink.

There are sets of long skinny darts on the front and back pieces

Skinny as in one cm skinny. More a design line than a shaping dart.

I left them off the back. They do nothing, and I can easily add them in later if they look like they should be there.

At it's basic design, this 'top' is a cut on, sleeve/yoke piece with panels hanging from it that are to be loosely attached/buttoned together at the sides, with a regular shirt placket at the front. A T shape.

This shape makes a lot of appearances in Miyake's Vogues.

Still meaning to sew this one. It's handsome, but it has the 'is this practical' sleeve problem (the one where you can't wear a coat over this)

I will probably just make a tiny model of this one. I have questions.

This one the sleeves are a separate piece attached at the armscye in a very traditional shirtmaker process, but the collar is a loop of fabric only attached at the back neck.

2314 is another variation on a Vionnet design. The pants are on my to-do list.

This video actually makes me want to sell off my patterns. What on earth are you going to do with them, Smaug?

https://youtu.be/d1P3ZYdKHuU

https://sewing.patternreview.com/review/pattern/31697

https://patriciatorvalds.com/2020/10/22/issey-miyake-2486/

https://sewing.patternreview.com/review/pattern/151422

finding a bunch of them from work address I'd never seen before

https://sewing.patternreview.com/review/pattern/151422

Back to the naughty top.

For all of the marks, joining the panels to the yoke/sleeve unit was less than precise.

The previous stitching does not line up with what the seam line should be.

And for a pattern with a jillion enclosed seams, leaving that top edge raw feels wrong

This is what I think it looks like on the inside: the seam of the top of the front panel (the pink part) lining up mostly with the folded up part of the grey yoke/sleeve.

It Mostly Lines Up

This tack doesn't really have a partner.

 I serged the top edge of the panel and brought the loose end through the serger stitching tunnel to tidy it up and secure it.

It's roughly the same issue with the one panel on the back, and I did roughly the same thing.

So the panels are attached.

And....?

They are supposed to be stay stitched and buttoned (and yes, I see that my alignment is not the same as the illustration).
So you have two layers of panel AND buttons under your arm. And this is not a jacket, this is a top. that's just a lot of bulk and visual interest somewhere it's not going to matter. What do I so, raise my arm to flash everyone the snappy details? At least there's not an ungainly armscye preventing me from raising my arm.

To compensate for this project stalling out almost at the end, I am spending time trying to rework some recent fails so I can celebrate some sewing successes here. Or at least document where they went south. Sometimes sewing is more about creating writing opportunities for me to remind myself I like writing (and I do).  It's all slow going.

A little color blocking nightmare party....v2127 gives me ideas

 So I am working on Vogue 2127, that Miyake top.

Does it have hot quilting cotton potential?

Maybe. I bought the Tula Pink Red Queen fabric on pure impulse, and now I have to figure out how to make it go to work. I did use the green Chrysanthemum cotton for a swing top after I did this sampler.

I did a similar test with the TokyoBots (a dress I should get to wear this week).

Thinking about this:

https://helensclosetpatterns.com/2018/09/10/the-refashioners-2018/

What is probably going to happen is the Siena Shirt. I've color blocked it before and liked the results.

And Siena wins the Red Queen Lottery! And I had to buy a yard of the painted roses polka dots, but they do look super fine together.

v 2127 1998 Issey Miyake woven top: tracing and altering a vintage pattern

Tracing off 2127, because these patterns are too valuable to cut. 

All ironed and ready to trace

And there's going to be some pretty heavy alteration work to size it up for me. I went by the stated body measurements to determine how much to add (not going by finished numbers, as the wearing ease for this top is an important part of the style). I traced the pattern and then carved it up 

I use a soft (2B) 2mm lead for the broad strokes and a Flare pen for the final. I try not to put any lines or marks into or on the original, so no ballpoints or hard pencils. Also: don't use Sharpies as they will bleed through.  I don't usually do much erasing, I find a soft fat lead has just the level of traction and visibility for this work. I mark all the marks and copy all the information on every piece because I won't have the original around to verify. If I am going to make lots of nonstandard alterations, I will trace a copy of my copy to alter that.

I didn't bother with that nicety this time. I did not trace the pants, either. This is probably going to be a one and done make.

This was a second pass at altering the sleeve, as I tried on the sleeve and needed more more in the biceps (vs just 'more')

The lines point to the problem: more arm than sleeve

Comparing the marks on the sleeve to the sleeve pattern and splitting it  for retracing in the photo below.

I will do another post on the instructions and the results.

Stay cool kids.