Showing posts with label atatac. Show all posts
Showing posts with label atatac. Show all posts

Monday, December 17, 2018

Atatac one piece jeans




https://shop.atacac.com/collections/sharewear/products/3d-pocket-jeans

They call theirs 3D jeans, but you know what this really is.
A Free Jeans Pattern.
With funky pockets.
As a one piece pattern.

I've droned on about the one piece pants pattern.

https://erniekdesigns.blogspot.com/2018/08/frida-jeans.html

https://erniekdesigns.blogspot.com/2017/06/drafting-my-own-one-piece-pattern-pants.html
Once you get it traced and graded, it's

LESS CUTTING AND LAYING OUT.
The new features on their pattern:


https://shop.atacac.com/pages/size-guide

Isn't it pretty!
And yes, you could slice it up to take advantage of selvage denim.

https://shop.atacac.com/collections/sharewear
It comes in several different format configurations, in size 3
You can alter it from there. It's shareware, baby.
Might I suggest a small donation to them?
It's pretty swell work.


Sunday, April 22, 2018

ATATAC Pod Jacket Resizing potential post four

I get a better idea of the actual construction from the faux 3D image


The measurements for this pattern printed at 100% are these:

back width 16.5"
front width with plackets: 
sleeve at bicep 14"
neckline to back hem 29"
neckline 
A lanky man's jacket.

I could widen the front piece by extending the top and the bottom right flaps. By extending the bottom one, it makes it taller, and the upper flap gets shorter (leaving the same front flap height altogether).

The whole body gets wider if you slash the piece from the neckhole to the back hem, and just redraw the neckhole over the final piece.
The whole piece can be slashed and widened at that green line to make the arms wider.
You would have to carve more armsceye out for that extra circumference, but when you take this all into your brain, that would be the easy part.
widen front flap

widen back and front flap

And of course, if you need it to be longer, you can just drop the hem. Or drop the cuff for longer sleeves.
The only hitch in this is keeping the seam around the sleeve at the elbow. That sucker is going to hurt in the wrong place. And making the whole jacket shorter may involve just scaling down the whole jacket (printing at a smaller percentage than 100%) and going back to widen parts.

Such as: how? Huh? 
Okay. The back length is 29, I only need it to be 21.
21 / by 21 = .724
73%

No. I've done this before and it really does not work; remember that spiral jacket? It's dimensions are fixed because geometry. And my puffy lady arms are just not ....never mind. I have other things going.
Speaking of upper arm bicep adjustments......

At this point, I gotta be honest. I have a costume job I'm working on, it's a hoot and a half and full of sequins, I want to write about it, my phone is full of photos about it. It will be done and ready next weekend. 
And I still haven't finished my raincoat.
I really don't want to work on this. 
You don't want to read about it anymore.
I don't need a jacket right now.
Bring on the glitterbug fabrics!

YESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS

Thursday, April 19, 2018

ATATAC Paper Doll Preview. post three

if ya click on the photos, they get bigger. Or you can slide on by.
Continued.

I have made the spiral shirt from CFPD, so I think I know how this is going to work.
https://www.centerforpatterndesign.com/patterns-1/cb-spiral-blouse

Because of all this, the sleeves make a certain level of sense to me out of the box.
And look at this striped version. The stripes run vertically. They are horizontal on the sleeve, and you can see a curved seam on the bicep, left of the pocket.


This is the time for the tiny paper model.
Copy

Print

Cut out

Add grain lines

Start goofing around.
Where is the neckline? Make that look like a neckline

And use the marked pockets as guideposts

Folding

The seam goes around forming the armscye

Which will keep winding to make a sleeve tube

With a really high armhole. Which is good for mobility (remember those flamenco sleeves?)
Your flexibility is going to come with your fabric choice I believe

And it works

Paper is not very flexible

One side folded, one side flat
Marked up the match points
and put them on the copy in the computer.

I love Paint. Don't take it from me, Microsoft!

So it will work. The front placket area looks to be a little less than the model shows (it barely touches). So I will do a little more goofing around with paper. And then a slightly larger fabric model. I'd really rather fiddle around with dinky seams and tape than scale up too early and curse the time I'd wasted.
And then there's that 'can I size it up?' issue.

But that's another day.
Further!


Tuesday, April 17, 2018

ATATAC Now that I have pattern pieces, what am I supposed to do with this thing? post two

I have a lot of pattern pieces. And free time.


Guess I have a book to read
http://atacac.com/book/index.php#index

Click on the internal links: this 'digital' book is a treasure trove of information.

http://atacac.com/book/chapter2-5.php
If you go through the entire chapter, you will have pretty much name checked every flat pattern designer who doesn't work for SimMcVogerick (will work out a good name for the Big One sooner or later). 

And to quote verbatim: 
"A common denominator between these cutters is that they emphasize the pattern, itself, as a tool for creation. By experimentation and transformation of patterns, either through block patterns or other shapes, they find new shapes and ways of designing for the body. As Roberts (2008) notes, one problem that may arise is that the garments may end up as walking patterns that have little to do with the body wearing it." 
(chapter two, page five, bottom of the page)

The Demented Fairy can vouch for that one
https://thedementedfairy.wordpress.com/2018/02/26/a-subtraction-addition-but-not-yet/

How to wear, how not to wear?
So will I get something I can assemble, and even more fabulous thinking: alter to fit me?