Sunday, August 30, 2015

The Refashioners 2015, part one

or  #therefashioners2015

The idea being that a selected group of sewists will remake a man's shirt into something else and post about it on Instagram.

But I do this stuff all the time.

I had just finished this bomber style jacket from a linen shirt. 

I had a whole set of make photos THAT I ERASED after I loaded this to Instagram.

I had a beautiful shirt I was rebuilding for my son, until I ...unpicked the collar from the shirt.

Which only works if you haven't make a buttonhole in one end and you want to recut the collar. Or the collar isn't ridiculously long cause you're working an XXL into a M. 
Which doesn't really work. The armseye on an XXL is really long, and unless you are dropping to a S, the armseye is not going to work in your favor, the front will be too narrow. Unless you take the front off the collar stand and the yoke and move it up.

Which gives you this result.

I really hope my son isn't looking at this. He's going to have a fit that this is headed towards Wadderville.

It would work if you could keep the collar/placket together, and the shoulder/armseye in one piece.

If you did this.

I'm 16" across upper bust, shoulders

I cut a generous overlap (1 3/4") to allow for the usual mistakes

This is the most accurate color representation of the set. Two similar toned striped shirts.

Notched at the top to match up the seam. I sewed the vertical seams first

To get the horizontal seam  to line up, I pinned the end of the vertical seam on the outside

Then I flipped inside and started pinning the horizontal seam

 I gathered the horizontal seam. A little Alder, a little One Hour Dress

I did not machine sew to the corners, I can finish that with topstitching

Now both sides are gathered. 
Cuffs still need thinking, and it's almost dress length which is too long for what it needs to do. And it needs interior seam finishes. And ironing.

It does NOT need buttonholes or buttons, though. WIN!

And I have one other over the top shirt idea and not quite enough time. 

This can be done. I have the technology. And the shirts.

Sunday, August 23, 2015

Some ideas are always with us

Vogue 8721, now out of print

You and I have seen this design many times over the years, but sometimes it is nice to have a pattern already made up for you. Elizabeth Gillett's Vogue pattern can be repurposed to make this fine Vionnet 'blazer' (their wording, not mine).

Essentially, it is backwards. The back seam in the Vogue pattern is the front opening in the 'blazer'. In something drapey, it would be yummy.

I do wonder why Vionnet doesn't dig into the mother line more often. It does seem a bit skeevy to me to buy/use the name and not the ideas. Unless all you're doing is selling perfume and licensing.

I am hammering away on three shirts for the Refashioners 2015 challenge, in the audience participation department. Been putting up clips on Instagram, but not enough time to make a post today.

see the cross seams? Go for it, kids.

Sunday, August 16, 2015

Rusty Dalek Culottes Culotta Playola

French knickers!

I've been working on another culottes pattern. It's way too simple to sell, but I'm still poking at the instructions with a stick.

More skirt like in appearance than it appears below.

Made from two yards of Basic Cotton Ultra (washing report to come)  Dalek skirt section at Spoonflower. The panel is 26.95" high, good for me for a skirt

It's one pattern piece and a formula. This seems to be a habit with me.

This is as far as instructions go at this point. They are waiting for September to be tightened up and made better.

referred to as Haslam french knickers. Can't find original source but lots of repins on Pinterest

They were adapted from this and the skirt from the Barcelona Loes Hinse dress pattern 
(very similar to the skirt on the Tiramisu Cake dress)

And here modeled by yours truly also sporting the SewProjects  tshirt in the my grill pattern, also from Spoonflower.
The shirt was a test run of potential cut and sew pre patterned stuff. Apparently it is still just invitation only (this T was 30$, slightly less with  designer discount). 

I will be putting the pattern up on Craftsy sometime in September. It makes sense to make it a free pattern, as it just feels like it's assembled from so many parts.
I would wait for later to talk about this, but frankly, this was the easiest way to post fabric photos to link back to Spoonflower.

Saturday, August 15, 2015

Book Report: Stripes and Russian Dressmaking Book

all illustrations from from  isbn: 978-5-386-05463-2 

Sewing does transcend language.

I have no Russian reading skills. I do not know the title of this book, I found it through the Seattle Public Library by keyword: dressmaking.  It's a flat pattern drafting book, pretty much like Armstrong or Kopp or Lo. The isbn is: 978-5-386-05463-2

No matter what language, that's a collar draft illustration

I did find a neat set of illustrations that deal with stripe matching. Cause I love me some stripes, I'm sharing those illustrations. These are not mine. Wish I were this smart, but I'm not.

Contrasting a balanced and unbalanced seam in stripes

balancing striped darts by shifting those darts 

moving darts to mirror striped effects in a bodice

THESE are going up on the design board!

Rectangle Dress - Pattern alteration

I've made my measurements, I've printed out the pages, I've proofed and reprinted out the pages (I copy onto onesided things I save for these matters). Since I'm only making one more of these, I'm just slapping this together with newspaper. I might trace the whole thing later to save it, but I might actually drop those extra inches around myself, so I will look on the bright side and make one copy for now.

The great thing about PDF patterns is that once I have downloaded the pattern, I can reprint and make changes all I darn well want to. I can make different sizes. Yes, it's more effort, but I get multiple sizes out of  one pattern, and I can cut and alter them all to suit the situation. Or my sister.

I did my measurements. I did my math. Hip is 41", divided by 4 is 10 1/4"

See kids, math is useful!
Got them all taped together. Now I need to make the pieces  longer. About ten inches longer. So I cut them both from side to side

Layout newsprint under the cuts

Line them up straight

Check several times, tape one side down and then the other, and draw new line. Right over the crossword.

Before we widen, let me adjust the facing. I added lines to make matching up the sides easier. For both of us, baby!  My preferred back of neck distance is 6 1/2 inches.

Making sure it's straight. Off a little I think.

Measure twice, kid! Then tape it down.

Now the back needs widening. By two inches.

Measure at one end, put little piece of tape down. I'm placing my long ruler along the piece I tape first, to keep it flat (and check to see that it stays straight. All these cuts make the piece want to curl up and go different ways.  Behave!

Check at other end, little piece of tape at the end. If I'd used blue tape, you'd have a better idea how little I mean.


Check in the middle. See how warpy the paper is getting? A big flat space to do this in really helps here.

And we're at 13 1/2 because I made it move there.

I have folded the neck facing in half to match the pattern piece to check the measurement.

I clipped the center fold of the facing to help get the right measurement, line it up on the fold line.  Moved the diamond out half an inch.

Pattern as marked.

Checking the front facing to match. The + marks where it will go. I didn't have to adjust the front fold line; it's right where I want it, but I checked it now.

And now they are ready to go!

If I had used blue tape, this would be a sea of little blue squares. And some long strips as well.