Paynter Jacket of Theseus

Thanks to WandaVision, many more people have an idea what the Ship of Theseus is, and it's the best way I have of describing my version of the Paynter Jacket. How many changes can I make and still call it a Paynter?

I bought the pattern out of curiosity, I have been following the company and it's production/marketing strategy. 

https://erniekdesigns.blogspot.com/2024/09/good-morning-paynter-field-jacket-link.html

I bought the pattern in September of last year. At the same time, I need a work jacket. that is something to hold my radio and my phone and some pens and a b7 notepad....and look like I belong where I am.

I looked at a lot of jackets and Chanel jackets and chef coats and the shackets that the caterers wear at the hall where I work..... and then looked at the Paynter that I was toiling to write a totally different piece about the Paynter Company and...Reader, I Made One.

This took forever, but that is thanks to a lot of days coming home from work and thinking "I don't need a jacket for a job I'm not going to have". I have a lot of "Don't Get Comfortable" vibes in my office, so my motivation to finish, much less begin, has been very very low.

I am always sewing. I have hemmed a billion t-shirts.

And I made my sister a new vest from a pattern I drafted awhile ago.

The other part has been what we used to call frankenpatterning. You start with one pattern and a set of pieces and after while a couple other patterns have grafted themselves onto the project to the point where can you really call it a Paynter jacket?  (thus the title of this post) To be fair, I did not alter the basic fit that much, except for the usual making it four inches shorter. And I was pleased with the fit on me. I've made a lot of other work jackets that really did not fit me the way they should, so if this venture does nothing, it reminds me to begin again if the process is getting further into the weeds by overfitting.

And I really changed up the program after the toile.

I did play with the bellows pocket. I played with the paper model (aka the pattern piece) and sewed it up and played with that as well.  I worked on the Kelly anorak and that bellows pocket has a little offset stitching sauce that makes it easier to stitch. 

I have complicated thoughts about how to improve this pocket and its attachment to the jacket, but I also really don't like bellows pockets on me (I am wide enough) and I guess I don't love a teaching opportunity enough now. Some other time.

Even so, goofing around with that took a month or so. This post is going to run on, so you might want to take a break too. Make a little batch of cilantro sauce.

My next thought was to try out an on-seam pocket in the front. I created a midline seam, and inserted a side-entry pocket bag into it. 

Not  because I wanted the seam (it would be useful for FBA and SBA work, but I'm just a barrel shape now) as I wanted the unintended interior pocket this flap would create.

Chalk marked the seam line for stitching

You can see the lining side. I added binding to the top seam of the pocket bag. The far side of the bag will be caught in the stitching of the front facing, the bottom in the hem facing. It makes in interior pocket that will hold a radio or a phone in the other one.

Unfolded, this is the left interior.

I think it was the Helly Hansen rainslicker I discovered this on. I look for them in outerwear all the time. The Bathing Clown jacket from Sleepy Peach notes this as  a feature.

I use my Uniqlo down cardigan a lot at work, sticking that radio in the interior 'pocket' and running the earpiece up through the neck. As much as I love those Uniqlo pieces for their utilitarian navy and black looks, they are lightweight pieces, made well enough, but they are not work wear.

A toile was made. Sewed it, marked adjustments. Added a back yoke to get a little reinforcement, a place for some lining to make putting it on a little slippier, and a tad more fabric in the back to cover my big beautiful butt.

Yes, I burrrito'd the yoke. It works; it's worth the effort. It is a very lot of fabric to roll up in a yoke, and if this were made of heavier fabric, it would not work. I'd still add a yoke shaped lining piece.

Progress. More time passes.

After I attached one part of the jacket with the 'wrong' side out, I remembered to put the pin on the outside face. (shakes head. Every Dang Time)

two piece sleeve fits really well, 

Eh, we're going the right way

Pant legs getting really wonky below the knee though.

Adding homemade bias from lining bits to finish the armscye. it does make the thing easier to put on. I may add it to the Bathing Clown jacket; I still have more of the matching lining

Sewing black fabric in a dark room needs extra light.

It was a straightforward make, two piece sleeve fit well, markings are good. There are a lot of nice details I left off (waist tabs not necessary), interior patch pockets with stitching that is covered by largeThe front placket instructions are hard to follow as written. The short version: make a paper model first. You make the placket and the buttonholes, you sew the placket at the hem and then fold it up and stitch it over the cover placket. This makes a significant lump at the hem, which you fold over and stitch through again - a total of seven layers. Yes, I had to count that several times. The Paynter Company must use some impressive machines to construct these jackets if they use anything resembling chore coat duck. My workaround was using the selvage edge of the fabric on the interior placket edges so I would not have to fold them under. There are no good photos of very black fabric being sewn to other very black fabric.

The struggle for me was recalculating that placket piece with my very much shorter jacket. You finish it, sew it at the bottom and fold it up to stitch it to the underside of the front edge facing. I finally ignored the buttonhole markings, chose my own, and went for it. I did enjoy better results because of the disembodied placket to stitch them on. Also no useful photos.

Okay, you can see the selvedge use on the inside of the placket, but you can't see the buttonhole I redid about four hundred times. It's there.

I have worn the jacket to work and still have a job. They are not related activities, however.

And now I need to fix the pants pattern. So I am making a second Paynter.

Not the same black. This one has speckles.

Bride of Dignified Pullover: Collar Transplant

Somehow, something went wrong.

Yes, the back is super wider than the front.....

I made a toile from the edited pattern. The back is enormous

And fixing it is .....pointless

I've had this problem before; move one thing an inch, next thing over needs moving an inch. 

In the end, I was chasing the seams around the bodice.

In the middle of a long walk, it occurred to me that I need to transplant the new collar onto a shirt that already fits and stop chasing the errors
(we aren't even near working on the sleeves...yoinks). Then I can slash up the new pattern into sections for my knit pieces.

And I HAVE that shirt pattern already. 

https://erniekdesigns.blogspot.com/2017/03/a-sleeve-that-will-do-mostly.html

So all I have to do is trace off that pattern, and redraw the new collar opening onto it. 

I'm going to open it up a little, and lengthen the sleeves.  I was going to add some ease, but this is for knits and it will have plenty as is. I might put the bands back on it (scaled down a little)

I can open up the bodice and make it a little wider, toile that, and then decide where to divide the body into blocks for my ....collections of shirt images

And I'm going to reuse the sweatshirt fabric.

I still have about a yard left. There's enough between the toile and that yard to make this second version. For once I used a long stitch length

Just in case this happened.

HEY! Thanks Previous Me!

But then, this happened. Just hanging out at Pacific Fabrics, like ya do....

Alexander Henry Flying Machines 2016

HOW DID I MISS THIS???????

So I had to do this. I didn't leave any for you, and I've used it all up. The Cutie summer 2018 dress, updated with the 2019 Arm Expansion Pack (going to try to make the Lady Arms sound like an advancement, rather than an aging side effect). 

now with more arm

Still too chilly to wear without leggings and a sweater, but DAMN

So the pullover in progress went into a project box and we'll come back to it presently. I gots work this week. Mmmmmmoney!

Have a good week, folks.

Today's soundtrack: Morricone https://youtu.be/yRDDflQlvgc
and 
Herrmann https://youtu.be/ANn3qjr-0fg

Pattern Drafting and thinking about sleeves

The goal is to make a one piece pattern similiar to the Tea Garden Tee/Miyake blouse. This is where I've left off the attached collar because I can only move one thing at a time.

I've taken my bodice block and a sleeve that almost works and laid them out to trace over them to make one big pattern piece. The pennies are there to hold the sheets down (they were just working with outlining a japanese sewing book pattern, so they were available)

So you see that overlap at the armceye? That rhomboidal one?

Oh come on. you know where this is going by now.

The overlap should be the shape for the gusset piece (minus seam allowances)

(this is why you draft without seam allowances. And why I need a big sign over the table that says : HAVE YOU ADDED THE SEAM ALLOWANCES TO THE FINAL PATTERN PIECES??? because I do, yes i do forget to do that)

So there it is. I did add the front facing overlap pieces.

And here it is in the $35 a yard embossed velvet

So this is all cute, but if you recall, this was a wadder.

Because I forgot to put in the gusset and add the seam allowances back in.

There are no photos, but let me paint you a picture: I raise an arm and there's a breeze on my stomach.

Oh.

Love those pins. Now they need a new jacket.

I have some more velvet from District Fabric ...

Working out the bugs on the gloves

I have been poking at this pattern for years. 

I pick it up about this time of year to poke at it some more.

Bike gloves. This is version four.

I made the three pattern pieces up in three colors to keep the action clear. Further explorations have changed the order of assembly, the sizing of the pieces, and a few bloopers along the way.

And see those little thread bits? Yes, I put the thumb on wrong the first time. And picked it off.

This doesn't work. I need to make the seams for the back first.

And we need more gather on one side for the other fingers.

Ungainly but moving forward.

And it will get a cuff. Cuffs are easy. I can grab a mostly dead sock and cuff this in a heartbeat.

Fit issues. Big hands. Hard to pin fit a glove on the dominant hand with the other one. But we're moving the right direction here.

Scuba fabric?