Friday, January 15, 2021

Or you could stay stitch the seamline first


Stay stitch those seams!

I'll be honest: this solution is going to result in pants that don't fit

I've been having this stretched out waist problem with denim and twill fabrics (last pair of pants gained three inches stretch).

The best way to avoid this is to stay stitch the waist and crotch seams first thing, before you start handling them. Twill weaves will stretch its why we like them for work clothes, but you want them to stretch the way you want them to. 

When it's too late, you are going to want to get out your pattern pieces and recut that waistband (and probably the back crotch seam). And it may not work very well. Another option is pleating the fabric to take up that slack.

Since I eat my feelings, I need new pants. Nudity is frowned upon, and it's winter here. I am working on a set of pants about posts. No, wait, reverse that.

My brain is a little overtaxed.

I'm at that point in the accounting class where I have to make my brain retain knowledge that is antithetical to what I thought I knew.
DEEP BRAIN HURTING.





Saturday, January 9, 2021

My favorite indie patterns at the moment

You want a good freebie:
https://fancytigercrafts.com/collections/free-patterns/products/one-hour-top.
This one is pretty nice, too
https://byhandlondon.com/products/polly-top

I am curious why so many really simple Independent patterns are priced the way they are.
Maybe other countries don't have club prices or Joann's for cheap patterns, but I'll be honest, 
a pattern has got to rock my world for me to spend over $10 USD on it.

I need it to come to my house, open up and cut itself.

The ones I am fondest of, the ones I make over and over again and have bought more than one, more than once. The ones I foist on others, insisting: NO, really, this one is genius....


The Tiramisu from Sewing Cake
https://www.create-everyday.com/products/0144-tiramisu-knit-dress-pdf

It's all there on the envelope. It's just four pieces.
Why this fits EVERY BODY like a dream, well, lightning struck Steph C and this is the result. Do not question, just accept. Google search the photos for this if you need proof. 


Vintage Vests 222 Folkwear
https://www.folkwear.com/products/222-vintage-vests?variant=35454321102

Pretty much all of the Folkwear are great, but this is the only vest pattern I ever use. It's well drafted, comes in mens and womens sizes, and has great instructions. First welt pockets I ever made, and made a believer out of me.


Loes Hinse Textile Studio Barcelona Dress
This is the other dress that makes everyone look amazing, but this one has sleeves that work and can be made in a woven. This dress, in polka dots, has broken stubborn humans that dared to cross me. It's out of print, but it's out there. It's worth the search.
Barcelona dress line drawing. It's pretty simple to figure out. The skirt is one piece, cut four times, on the bias. The bodice is a pullover with small waist darts, cut ongrain.

CB Spiral Blouse
https://www.centerforpatterndesign.com/patterns/cb-spiral-blouse
I've only made this once, it's a little tricksy to stitch up. There's a part on the sleeve that you have to take on faith (and maybe fold up the paper pattern to see how it could possibly work).  But it does, and it's not a fabric hog. Very wearable, and very worth the $20.