Pattern Drafting and thinking about sleeves

The goal is to make a one piece pattern similiar to the Tea Garden Tee/Miyake blouse. This is where I've left off the attached collar because I can only move one thing at a time.

I've taken my bodice block and a sleeve that almost works and laid them out to trace over them to make one big pattern piece. The pennies are there to hold the sheets down (they were just working with outlining a japanese sewing book pattern, so they were available)

So you see that overlap at the armceye? That rhomboidal one?

Oh come on. you know where this is going by now.

The overlap should be the shape for the gusset piece (minus seam allowances)

(this is why you draft without seam allowances. And why I need a big sign over the table that says : HAVE YOU ADDED THE SEAM ALLOWANCES TO THE FINAL PATTERN PIECES??? because I do, yes i do forget to do that)

So there it is. I did add the front facing overlap pieces.

And here it is in the $35 a yard embossed velvet

So this is all cute, but if you recall, this was a wadder.

Because I forgot to put in the gusset and add the seam allowances back in.

There are no photos, but let me paint you a picture: I raise an arm and there's a breeze on my stomach.

Oh.

Love those pins. Now they need a new jacket.

I have some more velvet from District Fabric ...

Search for the new TNT - One Hour Top

Today's word is FANCY

I am trying to find a TNT top that I can cram into a yard. Particularily a yard of 54" wide Liberty lawn that I really should have bought just a little bit more of.

This yard of Liberty lawn from Britex to be precise

But it can't be a pullover right now

It's FANCY. A whole lot fancy! And a decent purchase, cause I did not want to sew one. And the material would have been about the same as the purchase price. Sue me.

I am unable to pull anything over my head because the right arm won't participate.

This means that for the moment, the endless tshirts that comprise most of my wardrobe are off the table.

And the One Hour Shirt is now a button front for me.

As big a crank about old tech vs new tech as I can get, I do get Pinterest and I shove it on everyone I know.

You want something for Christmas?

You want a new dress?

You want to show me what kind of tree you think we should plant?

Pin me a photo and let's talk about it.

Like:

One Hour Tops

Now, I know, some of these are NOT one hour makes. Button holes are not on my one hour list (the Bernina does not like to make identical ones).

But they are straightforward makes, that can be tweaked with reasonable faith in the results.

The buttonholes are in the center. And I matched the plaid. And that's a bias strip around the neck line, which is cut differently from the pattern. But the sleeve does come down 3/4s length as drawn, it's not too baggy, and it's oversized, but I can fit it on a yard with one pattern piece, and squeeze those bias strip pieces.

So the next version will get process photos.

But this one gets the Spouse photobomb.

*when you are checking out free pattern sites, BE VERY CAREFUL of downloading stuff. There are a lot of places out there that are full of viruses, and sadly, a lot of old sewing websites (like 1990's old) have been left alone and have been eaten by bad forces.

If the page looks weird (you will know it when you see it) or shaky, don't open it. Go look around on the web for another source for that pattern. Because there's always more.

(and yes, a deeply geeky post about cosplay is in the works. It's all over but the showing, as it were, but I'm all worn out from the miles I walked the past two days.  Getting some sleep and cleaning the house)