Showing posts with label diagrams. Show all posts
Showing posts with label diagrams. Show all posts

Sunday, July 5, 2020

Dear Threads, I can't see what you did there

I have a mixed relationship with Threads.  I subscribe. They don't always have articles I am interested in, or something I want to read how to do.  Sometimes this lasts for months. I subscribe because I want to keep them in business for the issues when they do.
Like this one.
This magazine is made by humans, and us humans all make mistakes. Maybe a page got left off, or a color got switched.
This month,  I have questions.
These examples are all from the new September 2020 issue #210. 
Normally, I will see something that's a little off and file and forget it. When several of them occur in one issue, I crack open my letter to the editor 

NOTE: You will need to enbiggen to read these. I did not write them, so I have watermarked them and taken out some of the instructions, as this is NOT MY WRITING. Not pretending it is, either.
Disclaimers disclaimed.....

I've been adding sleeve heads into stuff, so I read this article with interest.
And I'm confused. It feels like the last step has been left off.

We get a lot of information about what to make the sleeve head out of.  We get photos of the inside and the outside.
What do we do to finish the seam?

I can see that if it's a jacket that this is all going to be covered up with a lining.
But if it's a blouse, we've got a lot of raw edges here.
Does that organza roll back over the head to finish it off? Or do we leave it raw?

I did that on the Journey jacket, it's ....meh but the sleeves are unlined and I wanted a consistent finish on the interior seams. For looks and for comfort, I want a finished armscye.  I'm also looking for a better finish on this (I've tacked it in to get the shoulder to pop and I'm still poking at it).
this is the inside of the jacket flipped to the outside, and that white stitching is temporary.
I genuinely would like an answer to this question. 

Another article (same current issue) has the classic error of illustrating a technique with the fashion fabric. The problem is either the fabric is black or (in this case) the fabric looks the same on both sides and none of the relevant stitching shows on a beautiful but very busy print. This is a really great technique as far as I can tell. But I can't see it, and I would like to.

In the name of fairness, I have a similar problem with black counter tops and cork floors, which I cannot see the growing moisture ant population on. I understand it is easier to gawp and complain than make a better example. I mean no harm by this.

I'd like to move to a good example of a sample (same issue), that which Threads is known for.

In the sample garment, you can see which is the wrong side of the fabric and which is the right (bonus points for contrasting facing pieces). The drawing on the left is a trifle unclear, I think the photo does a better job all by itself. In my sample diagram on the right I have added the clashing colored layers to the diagram. I think their diagram is more an example of the color themes that they use in their magazine. Some people really like pinks and beiges for their websites and magazines. Some of us don't. Guess which one of us still has a magazine?

The point here is: THIS STUFF IS HARD. I'm not slagging anyone; you can always see the mistakes after you've finished the job. It's even easier after someone else finishes the job. Writing this,  I can see several better ways I could illustrate that diagram, but I have to go wipe down that black countertop again. 

I get to live with my mistakes..

Sunday, October 22, 2017

Instructions are the hardest part

The pattern is easy. 

Think about it: telling someone how to do something and assuming they have no prior knowledge of a thing is tough. It's very hard to assume they don't know what you already know.

This is a video from the reboot of the PBS kids show 'Zoom', where one kid tells another how to make a peanut butter sandwich, and the maker has to follow the instructions literally. They repeat this exercise several times.

How to make a peanut butter and jelly sandwich
(once you get past the obligatory YouTube ad, the video cues up to the beginning of the skit)

Assume nothing.

I think the dean of instructions is still Ruth Wyeth Spears.
Her work may look familiar


Very familiar


She's not complaining about this, either.

Yes, I put this right in the middle on the back.

I've spent enough time with Japanese pattern books to know that you can get a lot done with a clear illustration. I have virtually no knowledge of Japanese kanji (I know the word 'kanji' though!) but I've made enough clothes to get what the diagrams are supposed to show me and in roughly what order.

Okay, so they're doing an one piece facing above, and separate facings below.
The instructions below are from 4411, identified as 
"Simplicity Primer - Guide for cutting - sewing - detailed dressmaking"
Yes, the words are useful, but do you even read these instructions anymore?

I'll admit it, I buy patterns for instructions. I can figure out most stuff, and I have to redraft so heavily to fit me, it's barely worth the tissue and tape to cut out a new one. More often than not, I graft details from one item to a TNT.


Love that shoulder pleat!

Literally, the trick is a pleat at the shoulder line on the front piece. Nothing more than that.

Unlike this classic, just reissued, that gave everyone fits a couple of years ago. 
Hint: must use knit fabric with loads of lengthwise stretch.
The Vintage Primer is pretty short. There isn't much to this pattern.


The pattern line is perfect, dammit. Stop screwing around with it! I can SEE you....


And then they show you how to mark your fabric. I don't think my mother ...ooh. She did. I just didn't listen.

Although I've heard a big brooch works best.


See, even how to put the damn thing on! This is what I'm talking about!


And then we get into Miyake terrritory.


How does this blouse go? It's all in the diagrams in the instructions.


Just try this without the instructions. Double dog dare you.
And to be honest, the instructions are "match marks and sew". The key is marking those marks properly the first time.




This is a working muslin (bedsheet)
I still haven't gotten it to fit me, too tight in one place and too loose in another.

Yes, I know: I'm as white as a blank piece of paper. It really does look good in person on me. Really.

image from Pattern Review

Now this Miyake 1309 needed instructions. The pattern pieces are a set of rectangles and squares.
The fabric was a handpainted muslin bolt someone gave me. It took about ten years to listen to what it wanted to be. And these are the pattern pieces.
Hint: label all the marks on the pieces with tape and a sharpie. I serged the edges first. I love this dress to bits, but I still have trouble recognizing which way is front, and that's with a tag marking which shoulder is the left one. I need a diagram, like S8452!

click on this to enlarge for the life instruction you should have been given years ago.
Never stop being careful! Keep hands clear of the blade!
Dress properly!
This is the manual for the table saw in my workshop. It's older than I am!