WIPs gettting finished: the asymetrical 'dignified lady' pullover

 

We last looked at this in 2019

https://erniekdesigns.blogspot.com/2019/04/bride-of-dignified-pullover-collar.html

and before then

https://erniekdesigns.blogspot.com/2019/03/the-bride-of-dignified-pullover-garment.html

And finally resolving it, well 85% resolved

 I've been meaning to resolve this shirt, and I finally broke down and (mostly) finished it

The cuffs aren't done, and the hem was so uneven because I left some parts off, and I just got annoyed with the whole thing and shoved it in a drawer. And kinda wore it now and then?

Enough to put a name tag so I could identify the back and the front

I broke down and bought ribbing that mostly matches 

and made a big foldover band that goes all the way around

Has a drop at one corner

I did not spend a lot of time sewing this, the stitching in the ditch is sub par

Inside back

Inside front

Right side out front

It goes with the mushroom planet colors of my workplace

Behold, the Recital Hall Bathroom at Benaroya Hall.

I match the entire color palette for the whole building.

"Taupe on toast"

I have not finished the cuffs, but I had lots of homework and a deadline to finish four more pants and three more dress hems. And since I have worn this to work a couple of times and no one has said anything, I'm going to let them be for the moment.

But at least I had time to post this.

#sewyourbooks Garments of a Dignified Lady Revisited

Once again, we're hitting the books. Or book, as it were.

https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/sewyourbooks/

I got this book in 2015

https://www.etsy.com/listing/242685955/garments-of-a-dignified-lady-japanese?

Garments of a Dignified Lady: Bunka (2014) by Koji Takiguchi

I have lost the will to participate in monthly challenges unless I'm already in and motivated. #sewyourbooks on IG in January wasn't something I was worried about finishing, just finishing in time to make a timely post here.

I numbered the pieces to keep track. 4 and 6 tried to fool me. 2 and 5 succeeded (who the hell makes two different sleeve pieces?)

This is with the two sleeves of different lengths, and not adding the cool hem bands, which would put it in dress territory

https://erniekdesigns.blogspot.com/2015/12/dignified-pullover-garment-actual-sew.html

Most of the details on making this are in this post. Yes, 2015. One of my better pieces I think.

The post, not the shirt. The Joann's bonded knit fabric was itchy and unpleasant.

The fit on most of these Japanese patterns is smaller than I am, with skinnier arms than I possess.

 But I did like the style, and I knew that it was just a matter of taking the element I liked and grafting it to a similar pattern style that fit me already.

So I traced over an existing knit TNT and changed up the neckline. I decided to run the foldover collar all the way out to the sleevehead.

At the upper right, you can see where the original right shoulder seam was. I needed that placement to draft the long foldover collar so that it's seam would meet on that shoulder seam angle.

It was a lot of erasing and folding and fudging, but it worked. And I didn't forget the seam allowances. I'm looking for a shirt that I can use my enormous collection of tshirt bits on. This is more about wearing tangible love objects than upcycling or remaking, but it does serve the same reuse ends.

And old cotton shirts are super soft.

Auditioning pieces for the shirt by folding them up and laying them out. Didn't go with the yellow sleeve.

Stitched them together with the help of Wonder Tape, here I'm trimming the excess from the seams. Yes, it is every bit as chaotic as that photo shows.

Putting the pattern piece over the sewn collage to trim it to size

Clearly we've skipped a few steps to the part where I'm sewing the collar to the front and back pieces (which are mirrors of each other) OVER THE PINS, yes, I know

It fits exactly right.

I would make this again, but there are a couple issues that complicate a real deep relationship.

I would not use a collar piece with one motif on it;either plain or all over print. That part looks off to me. Otherwise, I like the collage and the seams hold up just fine (I'm sure the fabrics will wear out sooner, being as preloved and thin as they are. I had to work around some holes from wear.)

This shows the collar construction as well as I can manage.

The collar can only be so long, and so tall because of the other elements of the construction and the shirt. Only so much width to the shoulder seams is possible because geometry.

.

The gap along the neckline shows my bra strap. I finally found a bra that I like and that fits me and I am just not going to buy another style because of the strap showing. That's just how it is.

This is not my first Japanese pattern rodeo!

Another story from the House Of Dud

https://erniekdesigns.blogspot.com/2017/06/another-story-from-house-of-dud.html

and this one proving my intentions

https://erniekdesigns.blogspot.com/2019/03/the-bride-of-dignified-pullover-garment.html

 I could do this

But probably not before the end of the month.

In point of fact, the shirt pattern for this started with this dress from Kimono Remake

The conceit is that you can make all the things in the book from narrow repurposed kimono and yukata fabrics*

https://www.etsy.com/listing/398669291/kimono-remake-clothes-japanese-pattern?

 The secret sauce was, once again, the shorter sleeve cap and higher armholes

*The kimono is constructed of mostly rectangular pieces of fabric, cut from a specific bolt of fabric known as a tanmono, which is between 38-42cm in width, and 12.5m in length - thanks Wikipedia

Bride of Dignified Pullover: Collar Transplant

Somehow, something went wrong.

Yes, the back is super wider than the front.....

I made a toile from the edited pattern. The back is enormous

And fixing it is .....pointless

I've had this problem before; move one thing an inch, next thing over needs moving an inch. 

In the end, I was chasing the seams around the bodice.

In the middle of a long walk, it occurred to me that I need to transplant the new collar onto a shirt that already fits and stop chasing the errors
(we aren't even near working on the sleeves...yoinks). Then I can slash up the new pattern into sections for my knit pieces.

And I HAVE that shirt pattern already. 

https://erniekdesigns.blogspot.com/2017/03/a-sleeve-that-will-do-mostly.html

So all I have to do is trace off that pattern, and redraw the new collar opening onto it. 

I'm going to open it up a little, and lengthen the sleeves.  I was going to add some ease, but this is for knits and it will have plenty as is. I might put the bands back on it (scaled down a little)

I can open up the bodice and make it a little wider, toile that, and then decide where to divide the body into blocks for my ....collections of shirt images

And I'm going to reuse the sweatshirt fabric.

I still have about a yard left. There's enough between the toile and that yard to make this second version. For once I used a long stitch length

Just in case this happened.

HEY! Thanks Previous Me!

But then, this happened. Just hanging out at Pacific Fabrics, like ya do....

Alexander Henry Flying Machines 2016

HOW DID I MISS THIS???????

So I had to do this. I didn't leave any for you, and I've used it all up. The Cutie summer 2018 dress, updated with the 2019 Arm Expansion Pack (going to try to make the Lady Arms sound like an advancement, rather than an aging side effect). 

now with more arm

Still too chilly to wear without leggings and a sweater, but DAMN

So the pullover in progress went into a project box and we'll come back to it presently. I gots work this week. Mmmmmmoney!

Have a good week, folks.

Today's soundtrack: Morricone https://youtu.be/yRDDflQlvgc
and 
Herrmann https://youtu.be/ANn3qjr-0fg

The Bride of Dignified Pullover Garment

Don't call it a reboot.
Well, it actually is.
Just a really tardy one.

Garments of a Dignified Lady

I wish I remembered why I ditched this version in 2015. I think it was the fabric weight and possibly too many large polka dots. Oh, and the seams were nasty to finish but too rough to leave alone. Joanns, sometimes you vex me.

As the Professor (King) says, you should mark your pattern pieces as if you might be struck by amnesia at any moment. Because you will.

https://erniekdesigns.blogspot.com/2015/12/dignified-pullover-garment-actual-sew.html

She bought all the Eames shirts at Uniqlo for this

I was honestly going to do this for Refashioners 2018, but it seemed less like an "inspired by" and more like a "coming up with a rationale to include this make in the contest"

I mean, I really do like this piece.

http://mail.dianeericson.com/index.php?id=903035939331312170

Diane Ericson's Faultlines jacket

But what I want isn't inspired by this, just reflected in this.

Read the rules.

I found some pretty cool knit collage stuff. 

https://www.matchesfashion.com/products/Matty-Bovan-Patchwork-stretch-knit-top-1236000

Okay, maybe not precisely this Matty Bovan. But you get the general idea. And now, months later, I have several collections of fabrics that want to become Dignified Pullovers.

Hulk wants shirt that fits SheHulk from too small shirts

Three BeBop that want to be worn at the same time

Because I love Cowboy Bebop. A series with a beginning, a middle and an end.

And that Eames pile

There's stacks and stacks more, but the Eames, the Bebop and the Hulk want to happen now.

I'm working on another toile from the pattern I traced off.