Friday, December 11, 2015

Dignified Pullover Garment: actual sew

It does look more interesting in the tech drawing, but every black object does photograph badly

model L/16

The actual sew is very quick, maybe an hour. It's just big pieces that don't have to be lined up precisely, and the interior finishes can all be serged. There aren't many of them, none of them are curved or eased, so lots of finishes would work. For my sister, I tend to bind them. A little showmanship goes a long way.

I love Pic Monkey collages

Almost all of those pieces are single cuts, except for the sleeve and one of the bands.

I used a middle weight mystery knit from JoAnn's, figuring I'd get a wearable muslin.

Yes, these are the directions. All of them.

The entire collar construction is not only skipped, it is mostly obscured in diagram 6.
I came up with a numbering system to keep the pieces straight, and spent a little time lining them up to see if they fit.

This is where I screw up every time. I ruined a beautiful piece of cotton making a Burda blouse years ago and not making sure I'd cut the right pieces and that they fit together BEFORE I started cutting my fabric. I had a very hard time making it work, and in the end, I had to cut it down and out of my size. A most beautiful and elegant child's blouse.
Lucky for me, in this case piece 1 was two inches too wide, not too narrow. Maybe it has a pleat in it? Maybe it doesn't? I call it my error, not the book's. 

Once again, I've made something that doesn't photograph well.

It's easier to see what's going on with it inside out. I left off the cuffs and the bottom bands, because at that point I was looking at a dress, and I need a top.

Either could be the front. Can you tell that the narrower sections were cut on the crossgrain? Not really, but I tried to get some variation in it. This is a knit backed with some netting, so it's a bit scratchy, and has ...pretty much NO stretch.

This top would be cool in a stripe/print blocked variation, and would work in a woven if I open the upper chest an inch. NOT the neckline.
I smell plaid.
I should rename the blog I Smell Plaid, I Taste Polka Dots.

The cowl (the black and white section here) stands on one side and lies flat as a part of the seam on the opposite. In this midweight knit, it does stand up a bit. You could interline it to get it to stand taller, or cut it on the bias to get it to flop.

I cut a large, I'm a 38" chest with mom arms. The armsceye are fine, the shoulder seam does dive over the edge but it's not tugging or bagging. 
Not that you can see this in this photo.

It's hitting me, without the bands, at the lower derriere. I will make another one of these, but I will do a FBA for my sister, enlarge the arms, and maybe bring in the shoulders. The sleeve should be a little wider if it's going to sit off the shoulder.

This is a common sleeve construction in the Miyake patterns I have.

from Ebay
And it often leads to puckering at the top of the sleevehead, where the curve meets the flat. 
from Ebay

I had a better Ebay example photo, but it's wandered off again. Hanging these shirts exacerbates the problem and adds another bubble at the top.

 Widen that sleeve head and I see some serious plaid misuse after the holidays.

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