Tuesday, October 30, 2018

Shoddy Goods And Joseph Beuys

What does shoddy mean?
poorly made? fabric made from the shreds of other fabrics?
All of the above and then some?

https://fabscrap.org/
had an insta post about selling it
Well, they will be in the new year. 

In the meantime, let's put up some links and get some learning in.

https://www.phrases.org.uk/meanings/shoddy.html
Yes, it's named after the company

You may be more familiar with it in moving blankets. Or it's foam friend, carpet underlayment
https://www.homedepot.com/p/QuietWalk-100-sq-ft-3-ft-x-33-ft-x-1-8-in-Felt-Fiber-Underlayment-with-Attached-Vapor-Barrier-for-Laminate-and-Floating-Floor-QW100B1LT/304702498

Which I could make into a suit (well, not the underlayment)

Then I could play dressed to match with Joseph Beuys
http://dressedtomatch.com/

FELT SUIT: THE FABRIC OF JOSEPH BEUYS’S LIFE

http://samblog.seattleartmuseum.org/2016/12/felt-suit-joseph-beuys/

I had planned on waiting to post this when I got the suit made, but I started writing this in 2016, and that suit is still not made.
But I do have the blanket for it.
Sooooo pretty!

I am still hemming and will be for the foreseeable future.
So the annual Salute To Costumes will be late, unless I catch a break in the next 24 hours.
Ya never know.




Sunday, October 28, 2018

uniGLO shorts

The original floor model
I copied a pair of super lightweight men's poly knit long boxer shorts from an international clothing chain, to cope with summer and dresses.
And now I wear them under all the dresses.
Me at Frocktails.
See, I do leave the house. And I'm wearing this very pair from this post.

Many of you might be familiar with the concept of chub rub.
I certainly am.

And in the summer, I don't want to wear tights or pantyhose to cope with this.
I figured these would work. And they do.
So I traced off a pair.
It's a very simple pattern.


I don't need a fly that opens, so I just did the front curve.
 This is the entire pattern. One piece, cut on a fold.
After you sew the front 'fly' curve down to that red star dot,  
you'll match those red star dots
Sew the center front curve.
You match the dots, you sew across the bottom crotch.

You hem them (not shown. You know how to do that)
(to be honest, you probably don't need to, but this stuff curls up, so I did)

The waist band is the most time consuming part.

You'll want to make a loop of not so wide elastic you don't mind next to your body. You divide it up in half, then half again, then some more halves, and pin it in equal sections to the top edge of the shorts, which you divided up similarly.

 And then you stretch it as you sew it.

 You sew the elastic to the top edge.

I ALWAYS over stretch it, but because I used 1" fold over elastic and and didn't fold it over, so it's not over stretched on the top edge. It looks like hell, but this tricot is translucent, so I am not modeling these shorts.

Melissa Fehr has a variety of methods on her blog (and in her Activewear sewing book)
http://blog.fehrtrade.com/inspiration/625/a-better-elastic-waistband-finish-tutorial/
I sew a button in the front for quick finding. Yes, I get dressed in the dark. 
Thanks Blondini for that idea.

And I wore them.
 While I made a second pair.

Okay, so my paper pattern is missing the back point. I know enough to continue that line when I'm cutting.

But there's the red dot on the fold

And it's friend the red dot at the bottom of the crotch curve seam in the front.

And this is where I put the order number of the tricot I bought on Fabric.com, so I won't forget when I need more.
Yes, it's  108" wide.

Simple as pie. Easy as cake. Right on a grid for your summer convenience.
 You can borrow this all you want. Just gotta be stretchy stuff.

Sunday, October 21, 2018

Most beautiful pincushion from 2019 WOW

https://tomandlorenzo.com/2018/09/world-of-wearableart-2018/

I'm hemming things. I saw this on Fb and copied it to do the image search on  A Popular Search Engine.

Next cosplay!

Sunday, October 14, 2018

Doing the work: Linky Party Time

Conservation Practice
http://www.musee-mccord.qc.ca/en/conservation/in-fine-feather-the-conservation-of-a-balenciaga-dress/

Doing the practice is the journey that is the work

https://www.instagram.com/violincase/

Hilary Hahn's Violincase: 

Official. Creator of #100daysofpractice. Violincase of touring 3x-Grammy-winning violin soloist Hilary Hahn. 

A brief conversation on IG that I had with Professor KDKing, about who succeeds and who doesn't, led to two book suggestions

http://geoffcolvin.com/books/talent-is-overrated/
Colvin is an editor at Fortune, ho hum, but the summary is the point: it's about putting in the time, not what you bring to it.

I know, this seems so sad. I've bored you with the schpiel about the potter who makes a living at it from my college classes, 
AND IT'S TRUE.



https://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/art-fear-david-bayles/1101156158?
https://kk.org/cooltools/art-fear/

https://artistryinaction.files.wordpress.com/2016/03/david_bayles_ted_orland_art_and_fear.pdf
Boiling it down: the people who make a living at an art are the people who just keep at it. It's why ants are successful: they don't stop. 

I know, I hear you say: but where's the inspiration? Well, you bring that. But you can't wait for it to come to you. It's there while you put in the 10,000...no, wait, the every day hours you put in. 
Love the process. Don't stop. 
"Fail more.
Fail better."
- Samuel Beckett

Meanwhile, this is what I'm doing
Almost all of them.
Oy.

Sunday, October 7, 2018

Tell me about my hat

The hat in question
Last spring, I was waiting at a bus stop, and I was wearing baggy pants, a big shirt, and a round hat without a brim. A young man came up and asked me about my hat, and I told him I made it.
Yes, I wear these out of the house. That's not the topic today.

I have been writing and rewriting this since then. I am very comfortable with overthinking. Much of this is me overthinking out loud. I could keep editing it but it's time to let it out.

If you aren't into this, please come back next week. We'll have new choir dresses.  I'm picking up the first tomorrow: I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT THEY ORDERED.
😮😮😮
----------------

A few months ago, White Middle Class Woman was waiting at a bus stop, dressed in MC Hammer/Thai fisherman pants in a cable television cartoon character print, an oversized shirt of indeterminate design (Issey Miyake Vogue, but hacked) in a African wax print manufactured and designed in China, and a round hat in a large multicolored print. A young man of color, wearing a Pacific Northwest REI rain anorak and 1890s California gold rush worker pants (aka Levi's) (don't know his shirt because anorak) came up and asked her about her Kofi hat, and she told him she made it from fabric she had hand painted herself. And then she went on about the rest of the appropriated clothing styles she was wearing. It was very civil and pleasant. No one said anything mean. She did gas on and on. She does that. She's working on it.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kufi
The notes on the company for this indicate where the materials for their items come from, not usually a feature on Amazon. Also, pretty hat!. 

I wish this conversation had not been a monologue on my part, because he brought up something I do think about a lot. The 'don't touch my stuff' conversation. The 'it's my culture and you can't have it' conversation.
Kate on Fabrikated has written about this, and I am finally publishing this because of that
and this photo.

PM May is wearing a local designer; the Nigerian guards are wearing the Empire's uniforms. You could spend a month unpacking this photo, about soft power and colonialism. Just let this image linger in your afterbrain while I gas on and on.

I like other people's stuff. I am a magpie. I secretly love fashion because I love adornment, I love the shiny and expressive. I want everyone to have the shiny happy feeling of being their own true selves.

I owned this print for awhile.  And then I didn't.
https://www.apartmenttherapy.com/seattle-centric-prints-from-peace-for-profit-167900?
read the comments

I grew up knowing that I can be invited to the blanket dance of the local First Nations, but that I can't invite myself (and thanks for inviting me when I was a kid).  I no longer buy 'native inspired' stuff, because these items are crowding out First Nations artworks from the galleries.  Life is tough enough as it is for them.

I really love this hat.

Remember those "Aboriginal inspired prints?"  I have heaps of them. Many are forgeries of someone else's sacred ritual paintings.  I will admit that even as an atheist, I am uncomfortable with wearing anything resembling a rosary.


I have mixed feelings about African wax prints. I rationalize my wearing of them by observing that they were originally made in Holland for export to India, and dumped on the African market. African designers made a Dutch fail into an African success. The only reason I have seen them is that they were made popular by African designers with a lot more flare than I can ever hope to have. My self-defensive mechanism here is that there are no particular images in these that are sacred; I admit the debt, but I am not giving them up.

I no longer own a qi'pao, but I have owned several as I am 59 and I live on the West Coast of the United States and we have a rich history of Pacific Rim souvenir clothes (Aloha shirt? I have a few). I can't begin to talk about this, but ..

https://youtu.be/vLgzFCifhaY
The Fung Brothers video does a nice overview and starts a great conversation.
In fact, if you do anything here, watch this video. 



An example from my closet is this kimono style cotton robe.  It's made from a IKEA duvet cover, in a faux Balinese block print. By IKEA. International sauce on top.
Going back to the question that started this thinking: I am guilty of doing the thing that I resent others of doing. I'm capitalizing it to make sure it sticks.


Don't use language to shut down the conversation.

I buried the honest question under a pile of carefully stacked word structures that repeat "YOUR QUESTION IS NOT VALID AND I WILL NOT ANSWER IT"  It's just an evasion. 

I do envision a day when all people share their cultures and don't keep their stuff to themselves. Where everyone lives in equality and harmony, and you know that speech.

But we aren't there yet. 

We practice identity politics because we haven't had our identities respected yet. Before we can have that idyllic future, we really do need to work it out between ourselves, stop pretending that it's all okay BECAUSE ITS CLEARLY NOT.
It's going to be uncomfortable for me to talk about my privilege; it's always been uncomfortable for others because they don't have that privilege.


But I really truly love this hat.

What I wish I had done was ask him  "Tell me about kofi hats". I wish I hadn't done the jargon pile thing. I am sorry. We could have talked about things because clearly, he was there to engage, not to judge, and I was embarrassed and used my word salad defense to shut him down.

So please, tell me about my hat. Please.

Friday, October 5, 2018

Unfolding Manatee

This is how we decompress at Ernie K Labs.






No, I don't get paid for this, but I can walk over there and squish a manatee for you on request.
Terms vary.