Scale Model Fun / Single Layer Layout / In Praise of Tracing

This is an adorable video by Seamwork, and it beautifully illustrates working with scale model pattern pieces. 

image from Seamwork video

https://youtu.be/Tb_AyBwGTKs

On the instruction sheets of most patterns, there's an image of pattern pieces laid out on the fabric, to show you potential pattern pieces laid out for cutting.

Why, there's an example in the video at the beginning.

image from seamwork video

I outlined in this image; you can scan and enlarge and print similar from any pattern instructions sheet. You can make them as big as you need to. They will not be exact, but they will be in proportion to each other, and that's what you need.

You can use those scale model pieces in other ways.

BWAHAHAHAHAHA

hemlock vintage clothing

I love the back covers of vintage patterns for the preview drawing of the pattern pieces, for the very same reasons.

I can use the scale model pieces (sized up on the scanner/printer) to make a model of something I just can't see from the flat pieces. This is particularly useful in hat making, where it can be hard to see how you get from the flat shape to the three dimensional product.

yes, the wrong side of the paper will show with the pattern piece. 

This is necessary fun for me because, all too often, the pattern is one I can never afford or find a copy of. Sometimes this little paper model is the closest I will get to it.

This is enough information to make one of these

As for trying different layouts, I'm a big believer in single layer cutting.
Nancy has other ideas.

http://www.nancyzieman.com/blog/sewing-2/absolutely-easiest-way-to-layout-sewing-patterns/

This is now a Zieman stan account. Deal.

I have learned the hard way that it's easier to lay out a pattern on a single layer of fabric and not give yourself headlights, match designs, AND save fabric. Yes, tracing the 'cut two' pieces takes time and paper, but that's why we get the local newspaper.

I made one pattern piece for each piece. I also run the pattern edges off the sides at the corners, which would get cut off anyway. Facings are cut from different fabric - I need that fabric in the middle for the matching mask!

This was laid out on one yard. One precious special yard.

This is an actual shirt i just finished.  I am wearing it RIGHT NOW Yes, I am sewing. Just not telling.

Next to Philip Lynott, at work. The mask was in the wash.

You will want to trace your 'altered to fit you/final version' pattern.  You are committing to this version of this pattern for this fabric. You can cut it all up later on, but TRUST ME just do the deed now. If we're going to be thoughtful about fabric, we're going to trust the process. And you can see on that bias layout above that I run those pieces up to the edge and a little over. If I had to go back and add something, I'd be....really out of luck.

So, you take the one piece (let's call it Bob left back) and lay it out on the paper. And trace it. Pen, pencil, tracing wheel, whatever works.
And here's the kicker: when you're done, cut it out, flip it over so it's the reverse of the original AND MARK THAT SIDE accordingly: Bob, right back. The mirror of Bob, left back. Do it now before you forget. Also date your tracings and mark the seam allowances and pattern notches.

If this piece is one half of a piece cut on the fold, join it up right on the foldline. If you're splitting it into two pieces for a seamline, remember to add a seam allowance.

 I am the queen of forgetting the seam allowances.

I mark the grainline and the direction I want the pieces to go if this is meant to go on the bias*. I WILL FORGET. I will also add indicator marks at seams if I'm trying to match the print across the seam. Eventualluy I end up tracing a new copy because the old one has too many matching marks or lines on it.

It's quite a packed little video, and I hope they spend more time with all the ideas they raised.
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*reasons for this at https://erniekdesigns.blogspot.com/2019/08/bias-theory-with-flaming-skulls.html

A new pattern, a new challenge, and the whining cat

Wheeeeee!

I am going to be the guest blogger on the “all photo/no text” edition of CraftyPod on the 24^th.

All else has gone by the wayside.

I sell patterns on Craftsy. I’m not getting rich, but I am meeting folks from all over the planet and hopefully making some good stuff happen. That’s the goal, anyway.

I stay away from clothing patterns. I did put up the pants pattern that I made a billion of for my kids, but the rest is useful, nonsized, small craft stuff. Not so many PDF pages to collate and print.

I have a love/hate relationship with PDF’s. I love that they show up in the middle of the night. I hate that they have to be assembled on ever larger flat spaces. The Titanic 1912/2012 project left me with titanic-sized layouts, forty pages or so. None were as big as the ShowStudio McQueen jacket, which I still haven’t cut out. It’s about a million sheets and half a million pieces, none of which indicate where they go or how they are cut out). And I lost the directions.

I REALLY hate pinning through regular printing paper, and cutting it is almost as bad. It’s worth my time to trace the pattern onto architectural flimsy (thinner tracing paper on big rolls) and do that: I can see the fabric pattern through the flimsy, I can match patterns. Swedish tracing paper? Huh?

What I really love about PDF’s is that they allow all sorts of people to get their stuff out there. You don’t need an advance and a contract with a printer. You don’t need inventory (as a warehouse worker, I have a dread of inventory). You just need an idea and the ability to explain how it goes together.

Okay, a pretty girl to model the product would help.

But back to that Crafty Pod thing. How about a process series of photos? I've been toying with a culotte pattern, mostly folding origami shapes and trying to translate them into clothing. Yes, I've made the Origami Skirt and the shirt, but I wanted the ideas in MY head to make something I could wear with a swagger.

I drew pictures. 

I made more pictures.

I made a model.

This is not what I ended up with, but that doesn't mean I didn't sew one up and turn it into cleaning rags.

And another.

I drew it up in Paint on the ‘puter.

I screwed up printing it out, but I figured that one out.

I laid out the pattern. I sewed it. I made more marks.

I haven’t made a pattern just on the computer before, but this is such a geometry project, it made sense to put up and alter, even in such a blunt tool as Paint.

I redid it in Paint, printed it out,copied the pages with the matching up x’s in the corner, laid it out, numbered the pages in the same spot on each page (even the blanks, I know what happens when you don’t do that and think you’re all clever. You’re not.). I scanned them.I am trying not to knock down a forest. I will lock the cat out of the room again and lay them out One More Time.

My kids are home for the summer, it’s Father’s day and my spouse is being ignored, my cat is whining, and I am trying to keep several ideas in my head at the same time, which is hard for a 54 year old woman with a whining cat. There's still a whole lot of brainscrunching work to do; sew up the photo model, get photos, write the directions ...

And I am having a wonderful time!

And a week from now, I plan on adding one more pattern to my Craftsy store.

CulottaFolda c Ernie K Designs / SK Mascis, designer 2013

All rights reserved. Not for reproduction for sale or distribution

Where do patterns come from? Paper!

It all starts with a photo. At least in this case, a photo from Teva Dunham's LoopdLoop lace book.

No, I don't want to make the leaf cravat.

I want the shirt.

So there are no notes as to where the clothes came from, and Dunham's website isn't listing much of anything right now.

So, time to get drafting.

Or folding, in my case.

These little pieces of paper fold up to be the bodice.

The muslin bodice and sleeve sloper (hey, I got..uh.. wider) is done.

to be continued......