I'm putting these illustrations at the front so I will see them right away.
Because this is also my sewing information storage bin.
And this is the summary of our Bias time.
Because this is also my sewing information storage bin.
And this is the summary of our Bias time.
Click on 'em to enbiggen.
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| Vogue Pattern Magazine's last issue is the source for the image on the lower left, with notations |
This is worth a minute of your time.
The warp is set on the loom and has to be straight and strong.
The weft is looped and threaded in different patterns inbetween the warp threads. It can be lighter, looser. Think of a jacquard weave, or a twill.
The thread/yarn/fiber is almost never the same weight and density as the warp.
If it's a crepe fabric, the weft is longer and curlier than the warp.
If it's a crepe fabric, the weft is longer and curlier than the warp.
Your square grain won't stay square forever.
Don't take my word for it? Marcy Tilton, from Threads
https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2008/11/06/bias-101
"Center seam or not?
Depending on the fabric you select, you may want to add a seam at center front and center back so the garment will hang evenly. On modern wovens, lengthwise threads are stronger and more numerous than crosswise threads. When a full pattern piece is placed on the bias, the lengthwise grain will dominate one side of the garment, and the crossgrain, the other. Unless your fabric is stable, the two sides of the garment may hang differently, with one stretching more than the other, and you may get twisting, rippling, and an uncomfortable tug-of-war."
Don't take my word for it? Marcy Tilton, from Threads
https://www.threadsmagazine.com/2008/11/06/bias-101
"Center seam or not?
Depending on the fabric you select, you may want to add a seam at center front and center back so the garment will hang evenly. On modern wovens, lengthwise threads are stronger and more numerous than crosswise threads. When a full pattern piece is placed on the bias, the lengthwise grain will dominate one side of the garment, and the crossgrain, the other. Unless your fabric is stable, the two sides of the garment may hang differently, with one stretching more than the other, and you may get twisting, rippling, and an uncomfortable tug-of-war."
Fabric movement is exaggerated in cutting pieces on the bias. It starts moving from the second you put a blade to it.
To get the article to hang straight enough in the long run, you should have the fabric running in the same direction on all pieces. When you cut "with nap", that's what you're doing.
Yes, I know: when you are using a fabric without a print or a directional weave, you can flip it around to get it to fit if you keep it ongrain. And given the lifespan of an article of memade clothing, it's entirely likely that it will hang straight and true. Crossgrain will be less stretchy than with grain, but generally, for most purposes, given enough exceptions to the 99% success rate you'll have......
it will eventually fail. Shrink to not fit. Not feel comfortable. If you're making a one use costume, this doesn't matter one bit. Honestly, I do have pieces that have lasted longer than I thought they would, that have ended up being binned because of this issue.
Maybe I should always sew for the long run.
This issue is exaggerated with bias cuts.
To get the article to hang straight enough in the long run, you should have the fabric running in the same direction on all pieces. When you cut "with nap", that's what you're doing.
Yes, I know: when you are using a fabric without a print or a directional weave, you can flip it around to get it to fit if you keep it ongrain. And given the lifespan of an article of memade clothing, it's entirely likely that it will hang straight and true. Crossgrain will be less stretchy than with grain, but generally, for most purposes, given enough exceptions to the 99% success rate you'll have......
it will eventually fail. Shrink to not fit. Not feel comfortable. If you're making a one use costume, this doesn't matter one bit. Honestly, I do have pieces that have lasted longer than I thought they would, that have ended up being binned because of this issue.
Maybe I should always sew for the long run.
This issue is exaggerated with bias cuts.
https://youtu.be/8BGP68kq_Q0?t=242
Charles Kleibacker slides this idea right by when he's cutting the red fabric for the pants on a double layer. We don't want a crossgrain fold in the fabric when we're cutting on the bias, because then the back pants piece 1 will be heading up and back pants piece 2 will be heading down. This is easier to imagine with a directional print.
You want the flaming skulls to be going in the same direction on the garment.
We either need a single layer cut or we need to cut the fabric to turn it to head the same direction to cut double layer.
I really should illustrate this with a flaming skull print.
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| Everything is better with flaming skulls |
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| I screwed up on this, and both front and back lean to the left. This is why I put the drawing at the top. I think about this stuff, I make notes about this stuff, and I forget. It is a novelty print of superhero valentines, so it's not going to last for years BUT it would be nicer to make sure it's entire lifetime was a superior one. |
I lay them out single layer. It's just easier and they are simple shapes.
I'm not crazy. Look at this photo from IthacaMaven's IG stories:
Two separate pattern pieces, yes, one grain up left, one up right.
It's something to consider when you're laying out your pattern. Both of these tanks are extremely comfortable (unlike their straight grain pals of the same pattern). Not all prints will work as well with this layout. Some will work better than you think (a bias plaid top is just as swell as it's bias plaid skirt sister).
I'm not crazy. Look at this photo from IthacaMaven's IG stories:
Two separate pattern pieces, yes, one grain up left, one up right.
This doesn't stop things from moving though.
This linen tank is growing at the lower right. Only a year old and probably twenty washes, hung to dry.
However, this split piece, center (and side) seam tank (novelty cotton, two years old, never put in the dryer either) is pretty stable.
Thank you! Bias fascinates me and confuses me as well. Your post goes far in lessening my confusion. Pinning this to my bias board in Pinterest. Again, thank you!
ReplyDeleteYou are welcome. I thank me as well, because I forget. I reference this post in other posts, mostly to remind myself. Self, stop forgetting!
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