Somebody's else's pants fitting Bridal Edition

McCall's 7910 on the left is the pattern we went with for the bridal jumpsuit, and the right photos are the inspiration pics that drove the fabric decisions.

There was pattern alteration and tissue tracing fun

 Remember the phrase "the wrinkles point the way"? We're going to come back to that.

I am made the toile in a pink ponte that I didn't want anyone to fall in love with. I wanted to make mistakes and take chances with this.

Trying it on with the seams on the outside really helps.

Wedding jumpsuit

First try on was way too long in the waist and neckline needed rethink. She is alllll legs.

I sewed other things to break things up: I made another Closet Core Kalle because I can make that placket in my sleep, I need to be reminded I know something about sewing here and here's a burrito yoke photo

Spoonyflower coffee cup fabric in cotton sateen. Mmmmmm

Back to the knit

Second fitting for this jumpsuit. The first one was a 'so do ya think this is going to work' (also had to see if we needed a side zip and yes we do) and 'is this what you wanted and what else do you want?'

She wants it fitted through the thighs, swooshy at the legs. She's the boss.

There are terrible photos but they let me see what I could not see when my beloved goddaughter was standing in front of me. Looking at the photos here, it's obvious where we need to go. Space and time to think.

hoiked way up in the front

hoiked up back view

Now, I know the back is fine without being adjusted, pulling them up looks terrible; it's the front that has the trouble. there's too much in the crotch point, even after shaving some off. The next set of changes include adding a stable lining for the bodice to support the pants at a stable waistline. 

When I get stuck, I have a couple places I go to on the internet: this one is for pants

https://5outof4.com/pants-fitting-guide/

This is a pretty comprehensive 'photo shows problem, diagram solves problem' run down of what can go wrong and how to fix it. 

This not related photo that illustrates the point that the wrinkles point to the problem: there's not enough fabric in the armscye for the fella to raise his arm. this is an exaggeration of the problem, but it illustrated the problem to the tailors that it's bad enough and he needs a remake of the sport jacket, because this is just too tight. He's not lifting boxes, but this jacket will not fit over a thin sweater, not even a shirt with sleeves.

For videos, Style Sew Me does a nice job

https://youtu.be/1gsHHK5TlEw

has a nice set of action shots (you have to smooth and reshape that seam as you sew) and some nice advice. 

I would undo the seam , baste it, check it and then stitch it, because my problem is not equally distributed front and back (and probably no one's is)

Baste and check before you cut.

And don't be afraid to put fabric back on if you're making a toile.

Spent a lot of time second guessing

Recut, resewn, recut in final fabric.

Better (also has elastic in waist)

It took me an entire afternoon to get this result, and a lot of mis-makes. Making the loops on the ribbon gave me my best results, but a whole lotta other folks would say differently.

This was a mistake. Pressing and putting the steam board over it was smart. leaving it on the ironing board overnight was a big error. The side seam pooched out to a bigger curve than it needed to be, so the side hip has a little bag to it. Bride is going to steam it back flatter, which should work. Still, a rookie mistake!

Clipped out excess in hem seam, used random pressing aide to hold steam in to set the crease.

So much to sew through at the side and so hard to get it all to line up. Ponte knit is heavy and wants to fall on the floor and pull out of my hands. 

I was very concerned with making sure the side seam for the zipper lined up at the waist seam and the top edge, and there was a lot of basting and swearing and the usual poor vocabulary exercising. It's like a white on white on white sandwich.

 Basted the zip seam closed to add the zipper,

I did this about fortybillion times.

Made a sash of the lace and poly organza. 

Sewed all ten feet of it, turned it, pressed it

Handstitched motifs to secure to the back at about one in the morning because I forgot I hadn't finished it. 

Bodice to pants, and this time I pull out the pins before I sew over them.

that's fancy sewing here.

this is as long as I can get the stitches to go.

Plushy elastic on waist gets little ribbon ends

Missing: photo of entirely hand inserted zipper. Gaaaaaah.

SUPER fancy sewing

I make checklists for any day or process that has more than two steps, so I won't forget something. 

I did not embellish the sash: I was too damn tired.

And Whitney doesn't read this blog so she won't know I snagged a lil Lovecraft for her.

Finished photo of jumpsuit? No. Too tired to think of it.

A sleeve that will do, mostly

As I think we all know by now, I love novelty prints.

And I wear them all summer long.

And I didn't buy any of these. Shocking I'd pass on Rocko.

In the winter, I wear a down vest. I'm working from home, and it gets cold and expensive.

Yes, I wear other things I sew in ridiculous prints, like jeans. 

They are still shrinking. I'm not getting taller.

But not many woven tops.

Vogue 1257

Most of the woven tops I like are Issey Miyake patterns, or variations on that ideal.

I think Miyake's 80s sleeves tend to be slightly mis-drafted: there's a slight curve to the cap, while the top of the armscye is flat, and you get that bulge on the dropped sleeve head. I've been drafting them out of the patterns; this is from an Ebay photo of a Miyake Plantation line linen shirt. The bulge was always part of the design it seems. Which is weird; it's not a case of removing shoulder pads from a too-wide 80s shirt, but a shirt with dropped shoulders that has a vestigial rounded cap sleeve pattern piece.

The Miyake sleeves are just too wide to fit into a down vest armhole. 

Long story slightly shorter: I wanted a woven long sleeved shirt, to keep the tasteless vibe going all year long.

The body part is easy. I'm flat-chested but broad in front.
 My back is rounding, but not too badly.

The sleeve part is the tricksy part.

Bad shoulder, wider upper arms than previous patterns I've drafted/edited, and a desire  to be able to move and reach things: these have compounded my errors.

What I kept coming back to was this article about flamenco sleeves. I am pretty sure I read about this on the Curvy Sewing Facebook page, and I thank that person, whoever they were. It's a great explanation and clearly diagrammed.

Flamenco sleeves by Flamenco Dressmaking.com

Between that and Overflowing Stash's conversation with Kenneth King

I felt I was onto something

Kinda like that sleeve at the top left.  From Butterick 4238.

I had picked this up to make a Bryn Walker knock off shirt for my sister, from some of the miles of IKEA curtain linen I've hoarded kept for her. I made one for myself and was impressed at how it fit right out of the box, with little/no ease on the sleeve. In a pullover, no less. High fives all around!

First version: not bad. It needs to be a little wider at the bicep, and it pulls up in the center. Also just noticing that the sleeve needs to rotate back a little bit. Note made!

Very wearable top, I should mention. The front flap is just for grins, but it's pretty and I crammed this into a 54" wide yard of fabric (without nap) at size 14.

No buttonholes!

It features a wider, flatter sleeve cap, and a deeper curve at the base of the armsceye. There is minimal ease in the seam, no gathers.

The deeper armsceye gives me some room for the extra width of the sleeve. 

Armed with my new ideal sleeve, I draft a new pattern.

You know the drill. You draw a seam. You match the seam with its reciprocal seam. That's off. You go back the other way, sleeve to hole, hole to sleeve. 

I am removing the year it took me to get here.

Blogging is time travel.

The green line is the back piece, the lower layer red line is the front. Slightly deeper in the front, but essentially the same. 

Another way of talking about this is with a pattern that you could look at yourself

Like the Collette Sorbetto pattern, which is updated to their new block and is free on their website.

It's a standard bodice, comes with a sleeved variation. The pullover ease comes from the pleat in the front. The sleeve has gathers at the top. This covers a multitude of wide bicep sins, and is worth thinking about.

I mean, I'm spending a LONG time just trying to get rid of those gathers.

They don't look much alike because - tiny problem - I don't have a bust so I don't need a dart. Certainly not one for a B cup like that one. And that dart moves the armsceye enough to confuse the shape issue.

(There is a link, to the right, on this very page about a SBA, from Trumbelina Sews, and it's well worth taking a look at if this is an issue for you. She also addresses a broad back adjustment)

Nevertheless, there are some clearly illustrative changes. I have cut the Colette to my size and it lines up with my measurements and ease allowance.

Lining the front pieces up on the center line, my front bodice piece has a closer-in shoulder (I want that seam at the top of my shoulder for maximum mobility) and about the same armscye measurement.

(I know the shoulder slope is off. Oh and moving the shoulder seam up the shoulder would mess something else up)

(there's a lesson here in the conservation of mass)

Or

Agents of Shield makes a plot point of it

 The fabric has to go somewhere. You pull something here, it comes from where? 

Wrinkles point to the problem.

See, it's pulling up in the center of the sleeve!  Wrinkles trying to tell me something! What is it, little wrinkle?
Did I listen? No.

The greatest difference is in the sleeve: it's the same width, just flattened out and wider in the bicep area. I've also removed most of the ease from the seam (okay I have no gathers at the top of mine).

It is a little shorter in the seam than the Colette sleeve, but it has roughly the same seam length as the Colette.

The rest is trial and error. And sewing.

This where all the effort pays off and unravels, about the same time. 

I've gone too wide in the sleeve, and need to increase the height of the cap (still pulling at the center sleeve). I missed that entirely until writing this and staring at the photos.

D'oh.

In addition, I've continued the error of the shoulder angle, so that the top wants to fall to one side or the other. Since so much of this shirt is about the shoulder line, this is a big enough error to make me want to pick that all apart (bias binding included -KKEERRAP) and fix it.

Eh, let's make another one.

Introducing version four: the Frida

I have added 1/2" of height in the cap. Also reduced shoulder slope

Smoothing out the transition in the new sleeve cap

And lookit that! I did not change the armsceye, just paid more attention to getting the sleeve to fit at the top. Woven fabric will ease in without too much distortion.

I know, busy print, hard to read details: the sleeve is not pulling up as much. I brought in the width of the sleeve below the bicep an inch as well

Yes, I am wearing the Frida jeans. They are very very wrinkled; I am a trifle too big for them now. This is why you aren't seeing more of them in this photo. This is my blog, dammit

I am a lot closer than I was, however. I should add a slight bust dart. I am good with the slight bag at the back sleeves. Style wise this pattern needs something else going on to avoid Nurse Scrub Shirt-itis. 

My goal is to make a shirt I can move my arms in.

And that I can make out of this:

The only thing that makes me hesitate is that it's rather scratchy in texture. Maybe it needs to be culottes. I mean, it is sort of butt-centric themed.

Maybe they still have that Rocko fabric up at the Joann's super store?

I should go check.