Pattern Drafting and thinking about sleeves

The goal is to make a one piece pattern similiar to the Tea Garden Tee/Miyake blouse. This is where I've left off the attached collar because I can only move one thing at a time.

I've taken my bodice block and a sleeve that almost works and laid them out to trace over them to make one big pattern piece. The pennies are there to hold the sheets down (they were just working with outlining a japanese sewing book pattern, so they were available)

So you see that overlap at the armceye? That rhomboidal one?

Oh come on. you know where this is going by now.

The overlap should be the shape for the gusset piece (minus seam allowances)

(this is why you draft without seam allowances. And why I need a big sign over the table that says : HAVE YOU ADDED THE SEAM ALLOWANCES TO THE FINAL PATTERN PIECES??? because I do, yes i do forget to do that)

So there it is. I did add the front facing overlap pieces.

And here it is in the $35 a yard embossed velvet

So this is all cute, but if you recall, this was a wadder.

Because I forgot to put in the gusset and add the seam allowances back in.

There are no photos, but let me paint you a picture: I raise an arm and there's a breeze on my stomach.

Oh.

Love those pins. Now they need a new jacket.

I have some more velvet from District Fabric ...