I get a better idea of the actual construction from the faux 3D image
The measurements for this pattern printed at 100% are these:
back width 16.5"
front width with plackets:
sleeve at bicep 14"
neckline to back hem 29"
neckline
A lanky man's jacket.
I could widen the front piece by extending the top and the bottom right flaps. By extending the bottom one, it makes it taller, and the upper flap gets shorter (leaving the same front flap height altogether).
The whole body gets wider if you slash the piece from the neckhole to the back hem, and just redraw the neckhole over the final piece.
The whole piece can be slashed and widened at that green line to make the arms wider.
You would have to carve more armsceye out for that extra circumference, but when you take this all into your brain, that would be the easy part.
widen front flap
widen back and front flap
And of course, if you need it to be longer, you can just drop the hem. Or drop the cuff for longer sleeves.
The only hitch in this is keeping the seam around the sleeve at the elbow. That sucker is going to hurt in the wrong place. And making the whole jacket shorter may involve just scaling down the whole jacket (printing at a smaller percentage than 100%) and going back to widen parts.
Such as: how? Huh?
Okay. The back length is 29, I only need it to be 21.
21 / by 21 = .724
73%
No. I've done this before and it really does not work; remember that spiral jacket? It's dimensions are fixed because geometry. And my puffy lady arms are just not ....never mind. I have other things going.
Speaking of upper arm bicep adjustments......
At this point, I gotta be honest. I have a costume job I'm working on, it's a hoot and a half and full of sequins, I want to write about it, my phone is full of photos about it. It will be done and ready next weekend.
And I still haven't finished my raincoat.
I really don't want to work on this.
You don't want to read about it anymore.
I don't need a jacket right now.
Bring on the glitterbug fabrics!
YESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS
Such as: how? Huh?
Okay. The back length is 29, I only need it to be 21.
21 / by 21 = .724
73%
No. I've done this before and it really does not work; remember that spiral jacket? It's dimensions are fixed because geometry. And my puffy lady arms are just not ....never mind. I have other things going.
Speaking of upper arm bicep adjustments......
At this point, I gotta be honest. I have a costume job I'm working on, it's a hoot and a half and full of sequins, I want to write about it, my phone is full of photos about it. It will be done and ready next weekend.
And I still haven't finished my raincoat.
I really don't want to work on this.
You don't want to read about it anymore.
I don't need a jacket right now.
Bring on the glitterbug fabrics!
Joining you here from lovely sunny (!) Seattle to say that I am loving your adventure with the ATATAC jacket. Love to hear about the upcoming bling outfit (because...bling!), but me for one to hear more about how you are going to make the ATATAC work for you.
ReplyDelete(Frankly, many of the things you are dealing with ATATAC-wise are challenges I face with conventionally drafted patterns that have unusual design lines. I have a 36J bust (small ribcage and upper chest, big bazooms), size 14 waist in the back but a size 22 in the front, 17" biceps with a tiny shoulder joint...you get the picture. So I am following your thought process with great interest.)
So much good thinking on fitting at the Curvy Sewing Collective. I am all about the junk in the trunk. I do the Full Rear Adjustment.
DeleteI am going to have to ponder the ATATAC this summer at my nonsewing job. I get a lot of brain work (that is, I don't get to touch a sewing machine so I have to figure it out - measure twice, draft forty times, cut in October...).
Seattle is sunny because I live here, too, and I got FOUR rain water cisterns hooked up, and they are empty empty empty. My college son is coming home next week so I anticipate lots of rain after then. ;)