Thursday, September 30, 2021

v2127 Miyake instructions and results so far

 I am working on a separate blog about Issey Miyake's Vogue patterns. I have been at it for a couple of years, so don't get all excited.

I know that there have been several designers from Miyake's 'house' on the job for these patterns over the years, I don't know all of them yet. There is much more information out there than I have included (which is why these are still in progress), but for my sanity's sake, I am starting to put these posts on my main blog. Because this is what I am sewing now, and this proves that this is STILL a blog about sewing.

I have shown bits and pieces of the construction of this top, but it's been put in the naughty pile while other things got done.

Let's see what happened.

I learned on Miyake Vogue 1309 to mark all the tailors marks, no matter what they might be.
I made this into a dress

For v2127, there were only three different ones on the ten pattern pieces, so I just went with light blue for dots, pink for squares, and hot pink for triangles.
Or was it pink for worked. They were pretty straightforward.

These are triangles, I know that

Ah, the squares are hot pink.

There are sets of long skinny darts on the front and back pieces

Skinny as in one cm skinny. More a design line than a shaping dart.
I left them off the back. They do nothing, and I can easily add them in later if they look like they should be there.

At it's basic design, this 'top' is a cut on, sleeve/yoke piece with panels hanging from it that are to be loosely attached/buttoned together at the sides, with a regular shirt placket at the front. A T shape.

This shape makes a lot of appearances in Miyake's Vogues.
Still meaning to sew this one. It's handsome, but it has the 'is this practical' sleeve problem (the one where you can't wear a coat over this)

I will probably just make a tiny model of this one. I have questions.

This one the sleeves are a separate piece attached at the armscye in a very traditional shirtmaker process, but the collar is a loop of fabric only attached at the back neck.

2314 is another variation on a Vionnet design. The pants are on my to-do list.

This video actually makes me want to sell off my patterns. What on earth are you going to do with them, Smaug?
finding a bunch of them from work address I'd never seen before

Back to the naughty top.

For all of the marks, joining the panels to the yoke/sleeve unit was less than precise.

The previous stitching does not line up with what the seam line should be.
And for a pattern with a jillion enclosed seams, leaving that top edge raw feels wrong
This is what I think it looks like on the inside: the seam of the top of the front panel (the pink part) lining up mostly with the folded up part of the grey yoke/sleeve.

It Mostly Lines Up

This tack doesn't really have a partner.

 I serged the top edge of the panel and brought the loose end through the serger stitching tunnel to tidy it up and secure it.

It's roughly the same issue with the one panel on the back, and I did roughly the same thing.

So the panels are attached.

They are supposed to be stay stitched and buttoned (and yes, I see that my alignment is not the same as the illustration).
So you have two layers of panel AND buttons under your arm. And this is not a jacket, this is a top. that's just a lot of bulk and visual interest somewhere it's not going to matter. What do I so, raise my arm to flash everyone the snappy details? At least there's not an ungainly armscye preventing me from raising my arm.

To compensate for this project stalling out almost at the end, I am spending time trying to rework some recent fails so I can celebrate some sewing successes here. Or at least document where they went south. Sometimes sewing is more about creating writing opportunities for me to remind myself I like writing (and I do).  It's all slow going.


  1. These are fascinating—I like the cropped version of 2088, reminds me of that vintage Hollywood Patterns draped jacket-thing I knocked off a million years ago. You have so much more patience for figuring these things out than I would!


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