Redrafter - just can't leave that pattern alone

Man, that sleeve sticks out more than I like. This is a camp shirt, but it doesn't need wings for sleeves.

 

I can bring it in a little at the seams but it won't hang as well. I will have to leave this be and remedy the pattern for the next use.

My goal is to take the surplus width from the hem but keep the cap fat; it would take a little FBA (full bicep adjustment) thinking.

Essentially I slice it open to the seam line and wiggle it around until it's the right dimensions and doesn't look distorted.

This would be fine but the right side seam is an inch lower than the other.

This is better (yardstick to check the level)

The great thing about the cardboard grid board is I can push pin stuff to line it up or swing it from and it maintains that distance or level. Pretty handy for this work; and I use a tape measure to check the measurements cause that board isn't numerically accurate (the folds eat up space).

I used a wide angle shot to get it all, so it's distorted in the photo.

Of course we're past short sleeved button up season now, but it's ready for next time.

Good Morning Paynter Field Jacket! Link Love Edition

https://merchantandmills.com/us/the-paynter

You can still buy one. A pattern, that is.

I woke up to my emails all about the MerchantxMills release of a pattern they created with the Paynter Jacket company. I fell in love with their marketing last year; they release one product every quarter, people sign up for their size (and color if that's an option), and then they manufacture a run of that item to those preorder quantities and sell only through their website. It's an efficient and effective way of manufacturing clothing. In addition to Paynter, Sleepy Peach clothes in California and Viapiana Denim in Toronto have moved to this model exclusively.

Less waste, less outlay for unneeded materials. Custom orders open you up to so much held stock inhouse and switching from one unrelated project to another is exhausting. If I were going to make things for sale again, this is the direction to go. One item at a time, multiple sizes, preordered. 

Paynter is a mood. They are a UK company that does ape American classic styles from LC King and Ralph Lauren. A little fancier than Levi's. A lot fancier than my Old Navy chore coat, but even that one has lined patch pockets.

Yes, this is my Old Navy Chore Coat. I found it on the deep sale rack

You can buy the pattern and pdf on Merchant and Mills.

https://merchantandmills.com/us/the-paynter

You can buy both on Paynter's website

https://paynter.co.uk/collections/paynter-x-merchant-mills-field-jacket-pattern

I bought the PDF, mostly to read the directions, but I am considering making a chore jacket in black for work. It's that or a chef coat, but this will give me more pockets, and the covered placket is speaking to my heart this week.

There is a video on the bellows pocket construction on the Merchant Mills youtube channel

https://youtu.be/2sBUoPvbZD4?si=VjMufD1p8YqETrkb

The Paynter website has much pretty photography of chore jackets

https://paynter.co.uk/collections/womens-batch-no-18-the-five-year-chore-jacket