Pressing Matters

 Pressing matters.

If I press what I am sewing while I sew it (to open a seam, to close a seam, to set a row of stitches), I don't have to iron it when I wear it. That, and constructing the item on grain, really makes the difference.

This pile of junk is my arsenal of pressing. Most of it is homemade from scrap.

I do keep most of the tools/toys in one rack adjacent to the ironing board.

No, the Barbie sewing toys are not part of the pressing set.

Because I have a room and I have space enough and haven't had to move, I can keep all the things I've ironed with at hand.

No, the foam isn't for pressing either.

Or the Captain Marvel lunchbox (that's my work sewing box)

I don't remember where I learned this (probably a Kenneth King book) but that pressing is more effective if you keep the heat evenly distributed (don't move the iron around, keep it on the place you want to make the crease/remove the crease). And that there are fabrics you want to trap the heat on to set the crease/no crease, and fabrics that you want to move the heat/moisture though.

I find myself hemming a lot of poly blends that would burn if I kept the iron on them, but they react better if I can steam them up and then put something on them to trap that heat. This way, they won't burn but they will do what I want.

Generally, I use the iron and my overly padded ironing board. It's got two layers of wool blanket under that dodgy grid cover (good for general eyeballing a measurement but totally warped and stretched). If I am doing work for someone else, or am using rayon or a blend, I add a silk organza pressing cloth (I can see through it and it won't burn unless I'm a total dope)

It was an extravagance 20 years ago. I haven't needed a second one, so it's paid off.

I made a pressing board from a hunk of clean (no paint) plywood and covered it with muslin. I only use it to cover what I've pressed to retain heat; it's got glues in it I don't need to cook with a hot iron and it can stand the heat (unlike plastic) and draw it off slowly.

To the right of the iron is a rounded stand made from pine board that I made to expedite making masks at home. It's screwed to another piece of scrap and I probably use it more than my fancy tailoring board.

It's nice for isolating a seam and not ironing the whole area.

I really wanted a ham and I didn't need a whole one, so I slapped together an acorn from upholstery and oven mitt fabric scraps (this is a toy ball pattern, with one repeating quarter rounded panel, like in a baseball cap). It has a lot of squish to it, and it's full of scraps and wool bits so it won't hold heat on the other side. It's really useful for short curves; I can get all the curve pressed and not burn myself holding it.

I am working on a new pair of polka dot jeans, and I have a short dart at the high hip area. I have it shown on the 'acorn'. I got the rest of the long crease out on the next pass.

Here's the toy list.

I made the silk mohair upholstery velvet sleeve/seam tool for a season of prom and wedding alterations. That fabric is indestructible, also expensive unless you find an old couch pillow. Like the silk pressing cloth, it's been a perfect tool (won't crush a nap, won't burn) and paid for itself over time.

Better not mess this up; sweater alteration

You know; there's a couple of them waiting in your WIP stack.

It's an alteration to a precious jacket.

Yardage from a special trip that cost a lot (money or time or family effort)

 The unfinished family quilt

https://erniekdesigns.blogspot.com/2016/02/quilting-someone-elses-family-treasure.html

It turned out great; I get to see it every week on the friend group zoom call as it hangs behind her couch. It's just abstract and friendly enough for work calls (she's a therapist and a doctor now!)

Today however, I cut into a knit shirt that is four inches too long. I

I gave a lot of thought to giving it away, or selling it.

It's from Sleepy Peach, and I love all their things but to get a wide enough thing I end up with a thing that is too long. Most of the time this is fine.

This one, no.

https://sleepypeach.clothing/products/the-celestial-knit-button-up

So I tortured myself for a few months and did the deed this evening.

 I pinned it up the whole way around. I fiddled with it. I stitched it with a zig zag. 

I cut it

I went over the cut edges with a fat long zig zag (it's a perfect two color knit, so I don't think it will unravel)

Lots of blocking it back into place. I may catch stitch the edge to the body.  Still have some work to do on the placket binding.

This is hanging up where I can see it in my bedroom. I am debating shortening the sleeves for my arms. It's not an expensive western shirt, but I try to subscribe to the idea that when you alter something, you try to leave the extra fabric in it. And to get the cuffs to work, I would have to either undo some snaps or cut the fabric.

Inside it would be an easy redo except for the snaps.

I'm still just staring at this one, but I really want to wear it to work this winter to show off in front of the bolo tie crew.