Getting ready for jeans on Pattern Review, I got all excited about the competition and then I read the rules. Denim, max lycra 5%. Oh like I CARE about the lycra.....
My dream jeans are Kenneth King's Fortuny jeans.
|Screen grab from Kenneth King's "Jeanius!" class, which I cannot endorse enough.|
In fact, I'll wager few of those jeans in this shot are denim (center back are moleskin I believe). I believe jeans are the style, not the material.
But it's not my contest.
I've had my pity party,
put the brocade upholstery away...
and I only meant to cut out a muslin today, and figured, well, damn, might as well make the denim ones the muslin for the brocade ones to come.
One thing led to another...
And now I have the front pockets and pieces done. Will work on back and side seams tomorrow.
|Yes, it was cheap and stretchy and JoAnn's. And I fell in loooooove|
I've been trying to make a heart shaped yoke jean for awhile, too chicken to commit fabric to figure it out. The floral was supposed to be that, but I just didn't have enough material to cover it if it failed, and as ever, I get too fond of the 'muslin' fabric and ...go with a slight variation. These were version 5.5 of the cloned jeans, with the side seams rebalanced to the front by 1/2".
It is a little obsessive, but once I got within 1/2" here and there of the perfect fitting, perfectly comfortable jeans, it has been hard to stop. (oh, just go hit the 'jeans' in the label cloud. I got a million of these things....).
And then puttering around on Closet Case Files, I found this link to a Ginger remake with something called Bottom Up jeans by Liu Jo. Go read it. I'll be in the kitchen.
|Liu Jo "Bottom Up" jeans 2014.|
Voila! Okay, so they don't fit the model very well. The yoke gets wider towards the sides, and there's a horizontal dart midpocket. Just in case you are more KimK than JLo.
And a shout out regarding the pocket placement: it lines up with the center seam, not the yoke seam. Much better to my mind. Almost distracts from the side to side folds; poor, flat model!
I'm not doing the side dart, not that I don't need one, but I am doing that reversed yoke. In the perfect, unsubtle world, I would have a heart shaped effect with the yoke seam (slight dip in the center, rounded yoke that drops out on the side.
For these jeans, I want the yoke seam to line up with the pocket seam at the side seam; I don't want the front pocket outside edge to dip that low (don't want a slash pocket).
This pair is made from some heavy 28" Japanese selvage denim, and I'm using the selvage and the reverse as contrast, so I don't want to get really busy looking.