Winter Coat wrap up: Can be seen from space

 Finishing the coat took a long time. I just didn't have any extended period of time to sit with it and get it all done, so sewing in five minute chunks would have to do

the quilting was too big for the exterior, so I trimmed it down

I open up the pins and hang them on the edge. As this went on, I hung them with the heavier bits on the inside of the bowl.

Yes, it's huge, even without hood or cuffs or hem. It's all held together with safety pins

This is the time when the coat is just dragging itself off the table and trying to break free.

I need to set up on the big work table when I do this stuff, and I just.... don't. 

I like the checkered flag tape. 

My zipper is weird: at the bottom, the insert pin is on the right (my left) and the retaining box is on the left (my right). I am used to inserting the pin with my right hand, and this is backwards and I can see a day where I rip this zipper out because of it. My brain is not happy with this.

https://www.ykkfastening.com/products/zipper/s_zipper.html  What a zipper is supposed to be

I made cuffs for the previous version remodel out of socks and it worked really well. I'm only using the part above the heel, folded in on itself, and not using the cuff.

This part, where I sew the sock ribbing to the end of the sleeve, took a ridiculous number of tries to get it right. And I unpicked it all every time I redid it. Picking black thread out of a black sock is really hard on the eyes, but really good for the profanity.

Added the end piece of fabric (also a lot of undoing and redoing)

Flipped up

It's over stretched but it keeps out the wind well enough

It sinks way in there

I had to pull it over a 2 by 6 piece of wood to get the basting properly done

I also had to remove the hood and redo it so that the collar is wider - it's still more snug than I would like, and I need to put something on the inside of the top of the placket to keep it from poking me in the neck.

Oh, you can see me coming alright

Homemade bias trim from rayon lining to cover neck seam

Cuffs need a something: this will wear out the fastest but is easily replaced

It wants to be free; the rest of the coat is crawling away

I wore it out today; the prequilted lining is really stiff and this is noisy and I am mammoth in it. 

The zips in the outside pockets are annoying, so I will unpick the single welt and either add a wider flap or just remove the zippers.

Clearly I am not staying on top of my blogging, but I am going to continue. I do post on instagram when they aren't blocking me from posting (there's a couple other faux Ernie accounts and I could put a stop to it if I paid for my account and got a blue star).

Also, fyi: this coat is not THAT fluorescent in person. I did get some OH MY comments from strangers today, but there are so many construction workers in Seattle I kinda fit in.

I will add a photo of me standing on my front steps (the fluorescent green ones) to complete my  story.

More Mistakes: Winter Coat 2023 Gets New Fabric and Rally Stripes

 

The recent darkness has reminded me that it's better to be seen than to be fashionable

Old version on left, new traffic flag version on the right

The old ultrex green coat got dirty and it can't be scrubbed, 

but the water print just disappears into the shadows and so will I. 

Meanwhile, an orange with racing stripes will not.

I can get a little dirty over the years, as long as I continue to have the opportunity to do so.

The 2ply ultrex in orange and 2.5" reflective tape are from Seattle Fabrics, which is still not open to the public. There was a snafu with the reflective tape, but I covered up the 'clashing orange' (had ordered black) with poly grosgrain and reflective grosgrain from the stash, also from Seattle Fabs) so I'm more rally stripes than single stripe. I feel like I should put on a racing number in a circle on the opposite side.

the hood has been sewn and seams glued. The stitching on the stripes has been glued as well. The front pockets will be next, with welts and zippers.

Finished rally stripes. This is the one down the back.
It won't get done when I wanted it to be done.
I will look enormous and orange.
And stay alive crossing the street.

New Winter Coat: Mistakes Are Being Made

So much work today. 

All for naught.

The front exterior pockets of the coat have been double welts in one previous edition, and zippers in another, and zippers functioned better. Keep stuff in better.

I did enjoy making these zippers

The trick is always: don't sew into the teeth, but right up to them, and either put a stop or glue across the teeth at the ends. Stop works better but glue will work here.

Love these process photos.

The zippers look good.

Sewed them in place, using the plastic cutting board strip between the layers.

You will not see the print of the flannel interlining in the finished coat. You won't see the inside of the pockets.

And when I hung up the one front piece on the mannequin, it looked awful with the white zipper.

Ew. 

Going to pick it out and try a different color from Joann's.

Preparation is often just picking things apart: sewing is like cooking

 It's all about preparing your mise en scene

This video is rather hypnotic to me

So is this one

Both creators are in Korea. Coincidence? 

Dollightful is really generous with her preparation and process; she really nailed the anime boy with this one. 

As for me, I'm working on the new winter coat. It's like sewing a car, only I'm using a familiar pattern this time and I left myself instructions 

https://erniekdesigns.blogspot.com/2018/02/coat-assembly-instructions.html

It's beginning to look a lot like Halloween: Tastes Like Chicken Edition

Now that it's one big Something Special company, you can find a hefty cross section of costumes, mostly Simplicity, in the costume book at Joann's. there are still costume patterns in the individual pattern 'company' books, but this does get the job done for the current crop.

I adore Halloween. I am glad it doesn't run all year long, but it comes close and the amount of creativity involved in it gives me life.

I also get the chance to play the "who's IP?" That is: you can use or restyle an existing costume pattern and present it as the thing you don't have a license for. Or you can be baldfaced about it (previous editions of this post have pointed those out).

It's not chicken, but it tastes like it.

She may have a dragon behind her, but she's the Queen of Fire, not the MOD. This would be a great MOB dress. I have no plans or needs but now I have ideas. 

Cersei might make more sense. Don't worry, my kids don't read this blog

This is a classic. Our men have always been bees. A bit more gendered of a statement but they were bees.

I have no idea what this is riffing on, but it feels specific. I do not watch the Disney channel right now but guessing princess.

Heathers the Musical? MeanGirls? They are both musicals.

Animals are always a solid costume. 

Donnie Darko vibes

There are more Lolitas, but this is the new one

Axoloti! Porcupine! How cozy can that sloth be? VERY

The lion, a previous cute baby costume staple has been replaced by Toddler Shark. Long live Toddler Shark (which is a costume that really makes sense for a toddler. They never sleep and must always keep moving)

Licensed. I love the Unnamed Doll love here. It gets cold the end of October, so this might be more dress up box.

More licensed. Now all I can see is how impractical this is going to be on a chilly October night.

I love the doggy dinosaurs but I understand the grandpup does not want to dress up as a purple pleather faux embossed crocodile dinosaur. Um yes, I still have the fabric. Such is life.

If my kids were teens I would know who this was. I spent some time on Google image search and it has let me down. so many anime with blue coats blue flame and wild hair. BTW Cation Designs did a really sweet Calcifer flame hand prop (from Howls Moving Castle) ; they are mostly on IG now but go look for it. Simple and cool.

Six is on tour. Get ready now. 

And this is not licensed.

For a movie about couture, this is appropriate.

You can make a regular item into a specific costume with the right fabric and makeup. Don't sleep on this approach; this pattern gives you the jacket, pants and the ruffled shirt. He's the most on tour!

Leave off the studs. Pretty sure the mask is foam.

Top hat pattern sold separately (it actually is)

Also on tour, Satine.

Officially licensed. I did not find the Sally fabric in the store but it's available online  https://www.joann.com/nightmare-before-christmas-knit-fabric-sally-patch/16713299.html

Off licence, but I like this one better

The obligatory Oz costumes, and I gotta say they nailed the Flying Monkey (I think this may be a first time for this character).  Go read their copy for this https://simplicity.com/mccalls/m8186 as well as 

https://simplicity.com/mccalls/pdm8127

Oh my god, the Winkie guard gets a costume! This IS a first. And I can't find my photos of the Winkie suit at MoPop, but I know I've posted about it.

When will Wicked get some quality knockoff costumes for the leads? The stage show is not the movie, and the Wicked movie is in production.

We'll always have the originals

There are many new costumes I just don't care about but you may.

https://simplicity.com/costumes/adults/

And now that it's McVogerickity, it's one stop shopping.