Good Morning Paynter Field Jacket! Link Love Edition

https://merchantandmills.com/us/the-paynter

You can still buy one. A pattern, that is.

I woke up to my emails all about the MerchantxMills release of a pattern they created with the Paynter Jacket company. I fell in love with their marketing last year; they release one product every quarter, people sign up for their size (and color if that's an option), and then they manufacture a run of that item to those preorder quantities and sell only through their website. It's an efficient and effective way of manufacturing clothing. In addition to Paynter, Sleepy Peach clothes in California and Viapiana Denim in Toronto have moved to this model exclusively.

Less waste, less outlay for unneeded materials. Custom orders open you up to so much held stock inhouse and switching from one unrelated project to another is exhausting. If I were going to make things for sale again, this is the direction to go. One item at a time, multiple sizes, preordered. 

Paynter is a mood. They are a UK company that does ape American classic styles from LC King and Ralph Lauren. A little fancier than Levi's. A lot fancier than my Old Navy chore coat, but even that one has lined patch pockets.

Yes, this is my Old Navy Chore Coat. I found it on the deep sale rack

You can buy the pattern and pdf on Merchant and Mills.

https://merchantandmills.com/us/the-paynter

You can buy both on Paynter's website

https://paynter.co.uk/collections/paynter-x-merchant-mills-field-jacket-pattern

I bought the PDF, mostly to read the directions, but I am considering making a chore jacket in black for work. It's that or a chef coat, but this will give me more pockets, and the covered placket is speaking to my heart this week.

There is a video on the bellows pocket construction on the Merchant Mills youtube channel

https://youtu.be/2sBUoPvbZD4?si=VjMufD1p8YqETrkb

The Paynter website has much pretty photography of chore jackets

https://paynter.co.uk/collections/womens-batch-no-18-the-five-year-chore-jacket

Famous for a Day: State of the Blog

 https://www.nytimes.com/2024/09/12/books/ebook-robert-caro-the-power-broker.html

Famous for a day

I was reading this article on my lunch hour, clicked on the embedded link about people cutting up their copy of the book to make it more manageable (cause I am interested) and screamed. It's a quiet office, so that was noteworthy, but frankly, sewing blogs are really not very impressive in my office.

I clipped this pretty tight because it's my work computer and all the tabs were open.

And for the eighteen to twenty regulars here who are wondering what kind of stats a ten year old sewing blog has when it's only published once a month

It knocked Needle Girl from the top spot. It and One Hour Dress battle it out for world domination

How much does a Grecian shirt earn?

 

Okay, I was an art history major, so my puns are lower than my wages in non profit work.

But I did sew up a shirt from fabric I've been trying to suss out the purpose of.

I do buy fabric because it's pretty. Not because it's useful. Or that it might go with something.

Everything gets a project box, so all the pieces stay together. The keen eyed will note the Thin Mints on the table as well. Coffee is on a side table; gravity is unkind.

Usually I take a layout photo, but apparently I just swam right in and here we are at sleeve insertion.

I keep editing this pattern. I need to balance the collar to the spread. I went down a long rabbit hole on this topic, but here's my new favorite website:

https://www.bondsuits.com/the-difference-between-bonds-british-and-italian-spread-collars

The front facing is a fold over and is very wide. Hem should be wider, too, but not enough fabric available on this yardage (just over a yard). 

This is pleasing to me. Also kinda accidental.

These buttons are from France, brought to me as part of a huge button haul by my old boss BT and his lovely bride (who I alter jeans for). Orange would have popped, but these pick up the weird green in the blue urns. I have to be careful about color choice on large buttons; I like to be colorful but I don't want to look like a toddler. Play clothes at work must be done carefully.

Mmmmm

Post it note employed to mark seam line on machine bed

This is where the train comes off the rails. I can make a billion (actually four) sample button holes on the same fabric with the interfacing ironed in, and they just turn out like very naughty buttonholes. The rounded end setting is slightly better, but .....it's just me. I have the same problem on all the machines in the entire world.

I picked all those suckers out and did them over and over again. I cut them open,  and filled them in by hand. Still look crummy.

I am really not very attentive to finishing on my own clothing.

I made welted button holes for my sister's birthday shirt (brussels washer in apple green that my camera is not interested in photographing very well; home made mens shirting bias strip for welts) This is just the halfway point; they are so hand picked it hurts my eyes to remember. I can level up my game. I just need to choose to do so for myself.

The internet will provide the yardage photo I did not take. Thank you Internet. 

This is about the correct color. The Bob pants are Kobe cotton twill in terracotta, and it's a very happy accident that they work with this shirt. The setting is work, at the corner of Taupe on Toast (not my joke but it's very true)

I am knocking out work pants in black twill and khaki poplin twill. Because at some point I will need to be color neutral without having to plan an outfit a week in advance. 

I have that kind of job now, which is why I am down to blogging once a month. I crawl home, sew for five minutes, and go to bed.

I did spend some time altering the sleeve for this based on a wearing of it. We'll get to that next. Maybe even this month.