Stealing from Mrs Mole: bias sash for waistband

As ever, if you aren't reading Mrs Mole, at Fit for A Queen, you really aren't reading sewing blogs. She is inspirational to me. Many upsidethehead ideas have been sprung from reading her posts.

Like this one.

https://fitforaqueen.wordpress.com/2019/05/21/simple-sample/

photo Mrs Mole "Fit for a Queen" 

Isn't that a pretty thing? 

She added it to the dress; its the lining fabric with shiny bits.

(the epic story starts here: https://fitforaqueen.wordpress.com/2019/04/24/adding-and-adding/)

but I don't do bridal, you says.

Well...... 

Let's say you had a bodice where the print was matched across it, and a skirt where that print was never ever ever going to match up to the bodice, and that this was kinda hard to look at where the two parts meet up.

So let's add a bias sash "belt" to break that up / unite those parts.

You can even piece this sucker together out of the leftover bits from the build 

And you can put that motif object over the join.

A nicer transition, and I didn't have to find a belt that goes with it.

You could use a lot of techniques to gather that fabric - because you won't see the pattern, just the colors.

Or you had two fabrics that were complimentary but maybe not that complimentary to each other, and they met at the waist.

You could make a similar sash with pieces of both fabrics.

And we may see that sooner than we'd hoped....

(tbc as This is why I hate color blocking)

Adding inside pockets to RTW

I can't entirely explain why I wanted a mustard yellow faux leather moto jacket*, but I did and I hunted one down on eBay (after mistakenly ordering a really misidentified one and finally getting a refund).

And it's just what I wanted, except where it is not.

The back label is super itchy and made out of razor blades (or that's what it feels like), so it needs to come off the back of the neck.

 And there's no inside pocket cause lady jacket pocket b%llsh%t

So I'm going to make a pocket and put the label on that.

Yes, I've been doing this forever.

https://erniekdesigns.blogspot.com/2013/03/adding-pockets-to-existing-jackets.html

(which gave me a chance to fix broken photos)

It's entirely possible that I will not need this jacket forever, and I'd like to leave the tag on for size and maker ID.

I am going to use that pocket pretty hard, and I learned the hard way to just overdo this at this point, rather than have to redo it later.

I don't make a patch pocket; I make an entire pocket, front and back. Stitch that around the edge with the insides out

flip it right side out

I ironed the points out

And sorta french seamed it around the edge.

This way the bag wears out on its own merits. If the original lining is too brittle, it will tear at the new seams, but this is more likely to fail in the center of the pocket bag.

I don't have any action photos, but this is the secret sauce.  I pin the pocket to the lining and double check to make sure that I have it pinned to the lining ONLY.  And then I fold over that lining at the pocket edge, match those edges up, pin them together and zig zag over them, sewing the pocket to the lining on the sides and the top. It's worth testing to make sure the zig zag stitch will open up to flatten out that seam  (a little ridge is okay, a big one will be uncomfortable). A wide, long, reduced tension zig zag will make the best seam (and last longer).

No, the fabric doesn't match, it's from the stash, as is the zipper (an old one from Seattle Fabrics big box of 50 cent zips)

And now my Jubilee jacket* has a proper inside pocket.

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* - https://www.themarysue.com/tag/jubilee/