A Fortuny Dress Can't Be that Hard, Right? #fauxtuny

 We'll start here at Joann's. In September 2022.

This slinky pleated fabric is all that and a bag of chips. I am frankly obsessed with it, and once I purchased it, I treated like a very sacred object.

And go here

https://artsandculture.google.com/story/the-birth-of-a-unique-gown-the-delphos-palazzo-fortuny/SgVhyD72_413Jw?hl=en

(oh my gosh, what a presentation! Well done Goggle!)

which leads to here

(the album this is in is https://www.flickr.com/photos/ateliersol/albums/72157602156412189/with/1472610094/ )

which is from here

https://www.fashionstudiesjournal.org/partnership-content-a/2022/4/22/mariano-and-henriette-fortuny-notes-on-co-creating-the-delphos-gown

And here I am. yardage and ideas.

Palazzo Fortuny image, from artsandcultureGoogle

Palazzo Fortuny image, from artsandcultureGoogle

This second image hits twice for me. One, I want the sleeveless dress and a sleeved 'jacket', and two, the model in front of a drapery and the view of the studio behind would work for photos in the sewing cave. two thought processes in one photo

But dress.

https://streisandstylefiles.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/Screen-Shot-2019-05-23-at-12.31.36-AM.png

The top edge is going to be handwork, and I really don't enjoy handwork. But if you do

https://www.larva.eu/en/fortuny-delphos-or-how-to-pleat-by-hand/

and a lovely Delphos by Before The Automobile

https://beforetheautomobile.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/merja-palkivaara63-1.jpg?

Many pretty photos and secretive process on IG under #fauxtuny, but I'm using that Joann's stuff, so as is my usual, to hell with the purity of process, let's go for results and perhaps some relatively quick ones at that.

Going from the Fortuny patent text in the FSJ article: my numbers are these

My head is 23 - so half of that is...12 for A. My arm got chubby, so that is 18, half that is 9 for C. For the drop between my head and the top of the armhole should be at least 9 (I arrived at that number mostly from the proportions in the patent sketch. B looks like it's about as long as C. So 9 for B.

9 + 9 + 12 + 9 + 9 = 48" wide (or 96" sewn into a tube)

I want it to be 47" from my neck to the hem (maybe 46").

So my fabric will be 97" by 48.25ish. I need rattail. Also interior cord that doesn't show. I need beads.

Front neck and back neck have separate cords for width adjustment so I don't choke

For a video of one

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M8nxA8d3AcE

And a slip to fit and make me feel comfortable

I have made significant progress on this, but I realized I had not finished this and posted it because the project had stalled. It has stopped stalling.

BarbieHeimer

photo IG @MajesticBaytheaters

I won't be getting to this double feature opening weekend, just not enough hours in the days and too much to do (and not able to sit for that many hours in one day)

(at Ballard's Majestic Bay, where you could do a dinner break at Lil Woody's a few yards away)

But as a former professional film projectionist I had to respond to this image

from https://www.techeblog.com/christopher-nolan-oppenheimer-imax-70mm-film-reel/

with this

similar image at 

https://www.sprocketschool.org/wiki/Main_Page

There's too much film on that platter, kids. This film should be about twenty minutes shorter and then it's less of a technological stunt and more of a genuine epic. Or just keep it on the twenty minute reels and it can be as long as you want or can afford to print and ship...

My 'girl who learned to sew making doll clothes for Barbie' heart belongs to this

She's wearing Solo In The Spotlight, dammit! (Gosling is content to just be Ken) 

But my real reason to choose Barbie first:

https://youtu.be/Kb7jYOYXiVc?t=23

https://superyaki.com/collections/life-in-plastic

Make your own bodkin

I think we all know by now my deep fondness for plastic cutting boards. I use them for templates, quick rulers, a nonpinnable layer to put pins into things but not through all the layers. they are cuttable, NOT HEAT RESISTANT THOUGH, bendable and usually easily found at a dollar store or

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/finfoerdela-flexible-chopping-board-dark-gray-dark-turquoise-30335898/

Mix this up with a  rainbow double cap rivet - get the 

https://emmalinebags.com/collections/bag-hardware/products/double-cap-rivets-3-sizes-5-finishes-available-50-packs?variant=2349553385481

You would want the extra small rivets, with the shortest post at .19 inch You can find other small rivet sets on Etsy, this is just an example. I have become very fond of little rivets. Little rainbow ones are cute.

The victim

top to bottom: the paper one, the plastic one, the one that Clover doesn't seem to have in stock anywhere (there's a slider button that clamps on the thing you're pulling through and a plastic piece at the nose that I can feel for and grab. And inspired this homemade version)

BOB, this is the HOUSE OF BOB

(this typeface is called Plastic Purse, for Lily's Purple One, and the source of the perfect Mr Slinger mantra: today was difficult, tomorrow will be different)

I stapled it on to the elastic like the cardboard one

So the secret sauce is: you can feel that rivet through the fabric and grab that and pull the bodkin along.

Eventually the plastic will break at the fold. 

Eventually I will go blind and the world will boil. I won't be worrying about pants then.

Also more Bob, in wax print from House of MamiWata

https://houseofmamiwata.com/products/african-fabric-ankara-fuchsia-orange-blue-yellow-pink-kahina-design-yard-or-wholesale

These pants don't match ANYTHING

There has been sewing. Pants. Bob Pants

 As its probably apparent, there has been a bunch of stuff between me and writing about sewing. 

there has been mending. there is always mending.

I have been writing and researching for my last class, the one that stands between me and a certificate that proves I know another set of things that will be of little use in  terms of a job but useful in terms of 1) amusing me 2) using family school credits  3)useful in keeping the job I already have.

June 17th was the worst day I have ever had at work in ...almost forty years. This graffiti on the bus stop did cheer me up, and whoever drew it, I love you.

I have been sewing pants, in ten minute increments.

As dearly as I love a dueling set of prints that work together,

trying to brighten up the taupe on toast color scheme at work

but maybe not at work, I've made some 

Plain Bob Pants.

Where it gets fancy is on the inside.

I learned from previous versions that the Essex will fray but is so so so soft and drapy. It's divine and makes these into real secret pajamas.

https://stonemountainfabric.com/product/essex-wide-natural/

And I have bound all the interior seams.  Not all the binding matches. I'm just not quite that kind of girl.

Binding binding binding

Frida is watching over this

So much binding. Otherwise a normal set of Bobs. I have a 45" booty now, and I can make a pair out of 2 yds of anything as long as it's crossgrain.

I think I like the shirting fabric better for binding; the stripes look cool, it's lightweight and presses like a dream.

Edge stitched the top seam, stitched in the ditch most of the way around for the elastic channel. Using 1.5" elastic for the Bobs. I put a lot in my pockets, and I made the pockets bigger so I could put a lot more into them. 

Made a cardboard bodkin.

Oh my god more Bobs. This fabric is from Stonemountain too. https://stonemountainfabric.com/product/textured-yarn-dyed-cotton-seed-stitch-stripes-golden/

The pants could match the shirt made  from this AHenry print. They do go together

More more more binding. The  binding could have matched the pockets.

but the binding is what I have out so  here it is. It's a big lump at the crotch but in such a place that i can't notice it.

Put a tag on the back on this one. I also put a button on the front so I can find the front faster.

Reused the cardboard bodkin

and after threading the elastic through, I had an idea.

why use cardboard, which is hard to feel for in the channel while I'm feeding/feeling for it.

And that's the next post! BODKINMANIA