Monday, July 24, 2023

A Fortuny Dress Can't Be that Hard, Right? #fauxtuny

 We'll start here at Joann's. In September 2022.

This slinky pleated fabric is all that and a bag of chips. I am frankly obsessed with it, and once I purchased it, I treated like a very sacred object.

And go here

https://artsandculture.google.com/story/the-birth-of-a-unique-gown-the-delphos-palazzo-fortuny/SgVhyD72_413Jw?hl=en

(oh my gosh, what a presentation! Well done Goggle!)

which leads to here


(the album this is in is https://www.flickr.com/photos/ateliersol/albums/72157602156412189/with/1472610094/ )

which is from here

https://www.fashionstudiesjournal.org/partnership-content-a/2022/4/22/mariano-and-henriette-fortuny-notes-on-co-creating-the-delphos-gown

And here I am. yardage and ideas.

Palazzo Fortuny image, from artsandcultureGoogle

Palazzo Fortuny image, from artsandcultureGoogle

This second image hits twice for me. One, I want the sleeveless dress and a sleeved 'jacket', and two, the model in front of a drapery and the view of the studio behind would work for photos in the sewing cave. two thought processes in one photo

But dress.



https://streisandstylefiles.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/Screen-Shot-2019-05-23-at-12.31.36-AM.png

The top edge is going to be handwork, and I really don't enjoy handwork. But if you do

https://www.larva.eu/en/fortuny-delphos-or-how-to-pleat-by-hand/

and a lovely Delphos by Before The Automobile

https://beforetheautomobile.files.wordpress.com/2020/12/merja-palkivaara63-1.jpg?

Many pretty photos and secretive process on IG under #fauxtuny, but I'm using that Joann's stuff, so as is my usual, to hell with the purity of process, let's go for results and perhaps some relatively quick ones at that.

Going from the Fortuny patent text in the FSJ article: my numbers are these

My head is 23 - so half of that is...12 for A. My arm got chubby, so that is 18, half that is 9 for C. For the drop between my head and the top of the armhole should be at least 9 (I arrived at that number mostly from the proportions in the patent sketch. B looks like it's about as long as C. So 9 for B.

9 + 9 + 12 + 9 + 9 = 48" wide (or 96" sewn into a tube)

I want it to be 47" from my neck to the hem (maybe 46").

So my fabric will be 97" by 48.25ish. I need rattail. Also interior cord that doesn't show. I need beads.


Front neck and back neck have separate cords for width adjustment so I don't choke

For a video of one

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M8nxA8d3AcE

And a slip to fit and make me feel comfortable

I have made significant progress on this, but I realized I had not finished this and posted it because the project had stalled. It has stopped stalling.

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