Wednesday, June 1, 2016

Jeanius Continued, Sort Of. Not Really.

I make my own pants. Mostly because RTW aren't Ready for My Enormous Booty. I can get the fit in the hips and legs, and I can put an entire loaf of sandwich bread in the space between my back and the waistband. Even the Torrid jeans don't accomodate me.

Obviously Kim Kardashian has a custom pair of pants for her pumpkin.

I had a fail in pants making that made me so sad, I needed a quick shot of redemption. And my TNT is the 'yoke up' self drafted jeans pattern from last year.  I just made a version of this pants pattern this past January.

See? I didn't even bother to take more photos. I just cut them and sewed them and boom.

This time I wanted to luxe out in upholstery tapestry cotton. I have an expensive piece waiting for me to commit to the style, so I got a slightly less expensive yard.three at JoAnn's. Shiny on one side, matte on the other, I reversed it for the yoke and the pocket facing.

But instant gratification is not possible it seems.
Before we get there, let me show you a positive thing I did here.

I have trouble with the bulk of fabric at the point in the waist band where I'm trying to put in a buttonhole. I wanted to reduce bulk.
Thus this foldover at the waistband.

Pin on extended waistband to front 

Stitch and iron up

Fold over at fly edge (excess interfacing removed from folded section)

Add rest of waistband facing, stitch across all

Trim excess bulk from this top seam

This is the same process on the other side of the front

Turned out 

The other side. Not finished yet, but you can see the overlap of the folded part over the facing part

The exterior is going to be prettier than the interior because I am going to run out of gas when I get to the .....camel toe...(runs off weeping)

I had a huge extra flap of fabric in the front at the crotch point (an inch extra, providing a stunning camel toe effect I do NOT have photos of - look into my eyes, for it is burned into them). 

I was careful about cutting and handling, but I must have stretched out what is, frankly, a very unstable fabric. Very prone to snags, so ripping out three or four lines of stitching and topstitching was a slow process.

Scooped that offending flap/chunk, and added a side to side gusset to relieve the shrinkage from front to back (when something stretches one way, it usually shrinks the other) in the upper thigh. And now they are the pants I was hoping for. 

Except for the final photo, which I take a good look at as I am loading it up into Pattern Review, there is an enormous ripple on the left upper bum.

I give up. It's probably stretching out the back seam. I could trim it down, I probably will (nothing is ever done, just not being altered right now).

Le Sigh. Call the Waaaaahmbulance.

Features a small welted 'watch' pocket in the facing of the left pocket. No back pockets because I don't use back pockets. No belt loops because no belts here.


  1. Like your choice of fabric. And thanks for the tip on taming waistband edge bulk!

    The wrinkle in the final pic, is it noticeable off camera too? Sometimes I hate the camera for exaggerating every wrinkle that off camera I don't even notice.

    1. Maybe if I just hoink up the waistband? Tug at the crotch? I had not seen it before in my awful over the shoulder photos.

      The photographer was, as always, in a hurry and not interested in pointing this out. It's his mom's backside.
      Do we blame him? No.

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  3. That final wrinkle is disconcerting but I am often oblivious of what is happening behind me. Some useful techniques and inspiration here - thank you.

  4. That final wrinkle is disconcerting but I am often oblivious of what is happening behind me. Some useful techniques and inspiration here - thank you.

    1. I have been working on a pants pattern that has had horrid back yoke bubble issues, and I just didn't want to see it again. And there it was! Operator failure or....physical defect?

      I just don't want to look at my backside anymore either.

  5. Cool trousers! It's funny - I would have guessed that was where your t-shirt was tucked in, frankly. I hope you resolve the wrinkle issue, if it continues to bother you, though I also find that the camera finds wrinkles that aren't so key in real life. PS Thanks for the camel toe laugh. :) Really, I couldn't help myself. Stephanie

  6. I always laugh when people make pants! It makes me feel justified in being such a yellow-belly and not giving it a go.
    No really, this was very entertaining and, well, cameras are cruel especially when flash is used. Real life looks better! They look good on (great fabric choice) and if they're comfortable too then not a sewfail at all.

    Thanks for having the 6Nap challenge on your blog! I've just received my Draping book; let's hope it illuminates.


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