Sunday, September 24, 2017

Summer Dress Thoughts from 2015/16

I'm ironing a dress and realizing that it's having the end of its second season and I didn't tell you about how I got here. It's a nice break down of my process.

It all starts with a dress on Pinterest
Love that line.  A high Korean 'Jeogori' bodice with an aline skirt.. With pockets thank you. always pockets.


This and the previous photo are on the linked Pinterest page. I want to give credit, I also don't want to have to keep relinking photos from broken links.

Broke it down with outlines with Paint. Good ol Paint.
Because of my fabric choices I did not make that inset collar. I did add seams for pockets on the front. I would not do what I did, but that's another post for another day. And I'll link that here when I get that done.

Crammed the bodice onto my fat quarter of blue cephalopod 


My boss asked me why I added bluebirds to the sea creatures. Variety of colors and same greigegoods.

Got to use the selvage as decor. The Cult of Cotton and Steel.

Improvising the overlapping collar was a red hot mess. 

Inside finish of collar. I've done far better work, but I wanted to wear it so I bashed it out.


Does it really work? No. Crossgrain vs ongrain is not working out in the long run; they are fighting each other badly and need to be ironed with a lot of steam to get them to behave (this is why I hang my dresses to dry btw). Also the sleeves don't register well; I should have found another fat quarter of the blue to do the upper back with. But I didn't. 

I like to mix prints, I like them to fight, but I don't like them to hurt each other.
 It's just a little too much of a muchness.

I anticipate taking this out at some point. Shrinking at different rates in different directions.


I wear this dress a lot because the fabric is a great weight for a dress. The print is fun, but the material is so soft and has a weight and a drape for a cotton that makes it satisfying to wear.

Other ways this dress could have gone and didn't go:


This came up while I was thinking about the luchadore dress. It's still on my idea board



See that panel/pocket on the side? That could be a great 'surprise' pattern insert. 
 Next summer.

Since apparently it takes me a couple years to make a dress. Two to think, and a week to bash it out.

6 comments:

  1. What an interesting set of inspirations - your dress looks like a terrific first step. I can't tell if you included the pegged skirt? And maybe the arm holes are more cut in on the inspiration than on your version? I wonder if "real" sleeve would make it adaptable to a cozy knit?

    And of course the fabric looks wonderful - I suspect this design is very dependent on drape and grain for success?

    ceci

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    Replies
    1. If you go by the original Korean inspiration design, the sleeves are cut on and a key part of the design. It would be deeply wonderful in a couple of knits - and apparently Cotton and Steel is doing knits in October in the Mystery Food/Octopus print. Hey, thanks for the idea! You're a peach!

      I did not peg at the hem - I cut in on the seams but left them open. I think that happens on the original dress, but as some art teacher told me - "what you think is happening is what matters, not what's really happening". At least in taking inspiration from something else. I suspect there was some nascent "and this way you're not copying something but making something new" backside-coverage.

      I am spending more time trying to get that angle at the bottom of pants. Compensating for a lack of height and growing width I am.

      Delete
  2. Oh, oh, oh, this is the best dress! I mean octopuses. wheee.

    Why am I no longer getting notices of your posts from bloglovin?

    And another thing, I have a very important question for you. I'm working on a Miyake dress pattern #2315. Do you have it? Mine has a tear in the top middle of the sleeve pattern. I thought it was just a blank area, but nooooo, it's where a dart's supposed to be. And I can't figure it out. HELP!!!!!!!!!!!

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    Replies
    1. I do not have 2315. And now I have bought it online, and I blame my weak will regarding Miyake patterns.

      I am not seeing a pleat or nothin' at the top of the sleeve. Lots of buttons at the armsceye but just a rectangle. From PR review, DorothyK "there were tucks in each side of the back panel at the top. I did it, but I still don't know what function they serve. In fact, they seem to make the fabric poof out. If the pattern said something like: "For more fullness in the bust, make the tucks," ". That's what I got.

      I will know soon enough I guess. You....enabler, you!

      Delete
    2. woo-hoo! There's no indication of a dart on the pattern photo or line drawings. You only notice it in one tiny image in the step-by-step instructions for doing the sleeve when it says sew the dart first. And of course, that's the part that's missing in my pattern. I did go to PR to read the reviews, but no help there about that. However you can see an indication of a dart in one of the photos of Dorthy K on the sleeve at the shoulder.

      I await your expertise in the matter with baited breath.

      Delete
    3. I got the pattern and put up a post with photos

      Delete

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