Sunday, August 26, 2018

Plant the flag and declare victory over 8813 Tilton

I have issues. And I'm tired of editing this piece. So we're just going to plant the flag and declare victory, right now.

This dress has potential. Particularly the view on the right, the grey with the contrast center.
Ignore the plaid mismatch. That tshape back seam and the line of the cut on sleeves has real possibilities.

The central gathered panel creates texture, but the vertical line it creates is crucial to the front style lines, which you cannot see in this version, because plaid.  It could break into two pieces.  It could be elasticated.
It should not be plaid.

The v neck needs to be longer. It looks cut off and frumpy up at my adjusted height.

Assembling the center panel first is key, especially with the frailty of that neck line seam. It wants to be pinned out and hand gathered, it wants attention. It's a focal point and can show off some short trims and fancy stitching.
You could even break it up into components and get a folded in effect in the center.
It wants a neckline facing, for structure and to stop cutting into the back of my neck.

The pockets are gappy and huge and useless as pockets. 
Stuff falls out, they catch on anything nearby (oven knobs and chair arms were my bete noire).

On the pattern, view A suggests you fold over 2 inches as a pleat after you sew it up.

I'd take 4 inches in at that point, two inches from the pocket lining and pleat the interior pocket lining to make the bag.
Pleated like a loooong dart.

FYI: that only leaves a 64 inch wide skirt (half section to 32" here).That's plenty wide.

I'd add that lost width to the back skirt central seam, and distribute it in gathers across the back horizontal seam.
(the back of the dress is a straight drop - all the fullness is in the front. 
I don't know about you, but I have plenty of junk in my trunk)
Because of the cut-on sleeve, anyone with boobs is going to need to do an FBA on a dartless bodice.
https://www.paprikapatterns.com/how-to-do-a-full-bust-adjustment-on-a-dartless-shirt/

That gather line looks so sad and pathetic. I should have done it by hand.

Fabric note: lawn weight shirting does not have enough give for this, and makes hard edges.  Wearability note: the back neck seam cuts into the back of my lower neck on that folded seam line.
It wants a facing, not just the roll over twice and stitch edge.
But it folds over at the back neck, and there's those gathers, which remember, provide some texture.

So, going to draft one.
Take center piece


Trace the top section to first gather line.

Add a seam allowance at the bottom edge

Add a seam allowance to the top of what will be the new bottom piece of the center panel
  
Slice

Label
Transfer markings from outside edge



Smooth that line out

Check your work (is it going to be the finished height you want at the back of the neck?)
Try it on. Why not?

Slice off the too wide part. Compare to original.

Now of course I need to sew one.
That's not coming up next, however.  I'm sewing a shirt for the spouse out of this fabric. Like the guy said, this is a battle I cannot really win, so: 

I win I win I win.



And I'm just sewing on buttons.
And there he is. The Spouse. His turned out well.....

No comments:

Post a Comment

Thanks for reading! I love your comments, I love your ideas, I love your recipes, but if you post links to advertising, I will delete your comment.