New Shirts, New Fabrics, Not For Me

 Doug wants a new shirt

Doug went to New York with the bride and they went to Mood

Doug brought home fabrics and buttons.

Took new measurements, they aren't much different than three years ago

and traced off new pattern (because I just can't find the old one) from Simplicity 7030, mixing Small Medium and Large pieces

His wrists are smaller than mine, and he's a foot taller. Go figure.

The other shirt will have the long sleeves and cuffs (roll-up able)

Checking length - I traced the entire pattern this time, for future reference.

 Checking seams on the floor (also walking the armsceye)

Sewing action shots: 

the obligatory sewing the yoke/burrito facing roll

And a partial unfurl

Buttons. I like these better on this shirt, but I'm not the boss here

These are the buttons for the other shirt, but the same size. SO I trimmed one of the buttons down for the collar, just to see if it would work.

I need to reshape the sleeve. It should not tent out like that.

Needs a little more in the back. 

And he seems pretty happy with it.

The black buttons look fine. I will figure out how to work on that sleeve tenting out like that.

If you work with me and were wondering what the entire box of cookies I got for this work had in it:

Because the ex ate half of them overnight before I could bring them all in.

Sweater Remodel Number Christmas

You can alter an intarsia knit sweater. Really.

You pick the seams apart, and it's hard to see and very boring. I unraveled enough of the collar to have enough to sew it back on after altering, and I'm glad I did: yarn has more flex than thread, and why go look for more when I have more right here?

My fashion neck line template, which I thread traced

I did this before with an Edgar Allan Poe sweater from Archie McPhee's and it's held up well. Also lighter so you can see the details better on it than the present project.

The body has a little extra from where I moved the armseye down and did not want to cut into the knit on the vertical. It feels fine with this extra flap in the armpit.

I just trimmed off the cuff and rolled the edge up and secured it. I push my sleeves up a lot, and left cuffs off the sweaters I had knit for myself before.

The Interior of the neck line has held up very well.

And here's the exterior front

The yarn is not cotton. It's also not itchy, and it hasn't shrunk or needed blocking, so it's absolutely perfect.

So here's the shoulder/neckline of Santa Abe in process

And then you cut off the extra. It worked on the Poe, it will work here. I do two rows of stitching before I cut it though.

I am attaching the collar by hand,in this photo picking up the stitches and putting them on a waste yarn in a contrasting color on the open side to tack them down.

Test to make sure it's going to fit over your head

Not quite

...and you can buy your own....

https://mcphee.com/collections/clothing-accessories/products/santa-lincoln-sweater

or

https://mcphee.com/collections/clothing-accessories/products/edgar-allan-poe-sweater

 

Fashion Doll Stylist Goes To See Thierry Mugler

 https://fashiondollstylist.blogspot.com/2021/12/thierry-mugler-couturissime.html

Oh just go read this and look at all the beautiful photos

Put a Hood On It: Or maybe not.

I am not sewing for me right now. I have a lot of work, and much of it paid because I like living indoors and eating. So I am going through the blog posts I started and finishing them up. I have a couple of hundred of orphans, and my hair is going to change color in them. LIKE MAGIC.

I made this short robe for Son from an Ikea duvet cover (as one does)

So I took some measurements off the original and did some mathing

And then I gave it a hood.

Oooookay.

This was more a 'do ya think this could work?' exercise in sewing. I cut my hair shorter and shorter, and I don't turn the heat up very high in my house, so the back of my neck gets cold. Not the front.

So, hoodies. And it would be nice to have a hoody for work that isn't advertising something else than my organization. And we don't have a hoody.

Shame.

So I was looking at how the facing/collar works on this jacket and ...well, when you are into something (hoods), you want to put them on everything?

The continuous front/neck facing is twice the height of the body plus the width of the opening, sewn all the way around in one go. It's doubled in width, to fold over that edge.

 So, if I were to add the hood, I'd be extending those facings (and adding a piece at the back for the head width).

I think you're always better with a higher hood than what I'm mentioning here. You could measure your whole head height from shoulder to shoulder over your head. That is why the tape measure is flexible, right?

I try to make muslins I don't want to keep (I got too attached to makes that were almost good enough, and I wouldn't bother to take it further). I make parts of stuff; when I know what works, I just work on the part I'm unsure of. Get enough to get a good proof of concept before I commit to the fancy fabric.

This might not have been the best choice for this project, but it did work for the toile. I can't even remember what this sample fabric was for. I don't buy grey stuff much (even if it is delicious).

This kinda works. Hood should be deeper...

My ultimate fabric choice is a Kokka knit, semi deep stash, 40" wide.

Hug Snug as a seam finish (preventer of future stretching) at the shoulder/neck seam.

Oooh. Sewing.

Awkward selfie before the sleeves, with derp face.

Now, looking back, this is the point where I should have put sleeves on the muslin. 

The original does not have a hood, and it hangs fine.

The finished item has a hood, and it is less than pleasing, at least in this version, with these proportions and this fabric.

So I took off the hood.

Better.

Now if the black was actually black. Next to black, it's kind of green.

Belated Costume Patterns and A Tiny FanFic

 I missed these patterns at Joanns in October, or maybe they are just gift sewing choices

Kind of two classic Joker looks for the comic books

The Care Bears?  Is this a New Generation thing? Why do they have Shrek ears? (there is no licensed Shrek pattern btw)

They had a pattern line

There was a whole series of them. This is not my copy. I have one of these  patterns, but I am too damn lazy to go dig up the photo or dig the pattern out and take another photo. Someone had an entire set at Value Village and it blew my mind. I could only take one.

there is a three piece face mask pattern included. It's tempting if it goes on the big sale

Of course, the Child, DBA Grogu.

this is creepy. It really is.

I can see buying this.

But what did come home with me was a yard of this 'retro' Darth print.

Okay, I see this as Pride Vader. He spent his youth trying to free his mother, and his teenaged years with another older woman, probably had more of a crush (I mean, the gal had a wardrobe I'd die for) than love for. Anakin never did like sand, it was too rough and coarse. What else do we know about him? Very little. All we know is that he likes making stuff out of broken stuff; the best mechanic in the galaxy?

Society's expectations broke him and made him into a weapon.

Poor kid.

Shirtmaking Workbook, or Coffin's underdelivered content

 I am not covering any new ground with this book report. I am kind of annoyed that I bought this book, because I had heard about this before. And you can read the entire book online on ISSUU if you poke around a little.

Before I forget, I found this page (copy and paste in yr own browser)

chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/viewer.html?pdfurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww2.quartoknows.com%2Fuploads%2Ffiles%2FCPi%2Fshirtmaking%2Fonline-content-directory-1.pdf&chunk=true

while searching for the missing online content for David Page Coffin's The Shirtmaking Workbook.

There are clickable links in this PDF with addresses on Quarto's website.

Hell yes I do!

and here's where it goes

Nothing.

There has always been some online grousing about overpromising and underdelivering on Coffin's part for this book, which offered more than 100 pattern downloads for Collars Cuffs and Plackets. It's part of the title, for goshsakes.

an early review, Lindsey - I thank you, wherever you are

The book is still for sale by Quarto, with this cover:

And it has  that advertisement on the front

and has absolutely no linked material, as of today, November 11, 2021.

I have a couple of emails to Quarto. We'll see if they have any form response. I will follow up if they do.