Monday, April 6, 2015

The Unspoken Piece; My friend the gusset.



This whole article from Threads online has got me thinking.

It's this line: "In the earliest commercial patterns, very little instruction was included because it was assumed that the majority of women knew how to sew most any garment."

Now I know that, like I know where the milk is in the grocery store. I've DONE my vintage sewing, I am doing it. Right now I'm in the 50s with a serious batwing sleeve thing going.

But I was reading this article anyway, even though I Know It All (you can see where this is going, right?) and when I got to this set of photos, it hit me.



Threads Magazine, my screenshot
There is probably no gusset piece included in the pattern set.


There isn't one in this pattern

And I cannot move my arms in it.

It probably gets sewn with an underarm gusset in it, because as a seamstress in that time, I would have KNOWN to add one. 

Yakking at Made Sewing Studios with Carissa, local genius, recently about this gusset matter. As far as she knows, they were also made to be removed so you could wash the gusset and not the whole shirt. Or replace it, much like dress shields.

Which begs to ask: what else do I not know to add that I would have known about?

From the past ages of the internet, a nifty tutorial on Gussets

Wednesday, April 1, 2015

Emerald City Comic Con 2015: The butterfly dress edition

I have a lot to say about cosplay, but I need you to see this costume before I've sorted all that out.



She made it from individually applied faux wings, and had no idea of it's origins.

You and I may know it from Alexander McQueen's Spring 2011 collection (this one by Sarah Burton)


She only knows it from The Hunger Games: Catching Fire. 





No photos of me there.
I had a prominent zipper blowout and had to sew myself into my pants to get home. 

Partially finished Dalek bowler hat

Once I get this other costume (Regency bonnets!) job done, I'll do a proper photo blog, but in the meantime, let's look at that again!

I am sorry I do not have her name. When I do, I will edit this to suit. I do have her permission, btw. That seems to be the point of cosplay at the con.