Wednesday, April 15, 2015

Miyake 1664 shirt wax print edition

I was kinda neutral on the whole wax print phenomenon generally*.
Until I saw this one.

This is printed crossgrain, like they all are, and the 'fray' on the rope is about eleven inches wide. Six yards of 44" wide is a lot of anything. Still, it was too strong a print for me to pass up.

Most of these seem to be printed so cleanly that they read perfectly well on both sides (which makes print layout easier and assembling a nightmare). I had no dye loss on washing. It's a smooth poplin, a little stiffer than you'd want for a regular shirt.

They also have very very gluey labels (I've made curtains out of another piece, so I have this part down). I recommend ripping/rubbing off as much as possible, and then massaging/scraping off the remaining gum with GooGone, or some other orange oil based goo solvent (my fave scraper is a plastic gift card). Left the colors and fabric quite fine. 

I hung it from the laundry line to stare at it for awhile. It needed a big canvas.
I can't think of bigger than 80s Miyake Vogues.

I have made the jacket,  three times in the 80's, size 8, still fits my size 14 backside. Everytime I put it on, I remember how much making this taught me about structure, weight and finishing. It hangs like a dream, the reverse lapel just looks so damn sharp. I should make it in wool at some point.

One version in grey denim is part of the Dalek suit.

 Remember when Vogue always made single size patterns?

Never made the shirt before. Two piece sleeves, non-dropped shoulders, I left off the pockets. The pockets are well planned and would hang really well (the ones in the jacket are amazing) but it just seemed out of place with this print.

I traced it out - still wide enough. I did bring the shoulders in about 1/4", and shortened it about two inches (I'm 5'2", I should mention that in the title of this blog "She Had To Shorten Everything And That's Why She Sews"), Nevertheless, I did not alter the width, proving that these 80's Miyakes are truly oversized.

I think the shirt is bigger than the jacket. 

I couldn't find buttons that I liked on this, so I made one big covered one and put snaps on the inside to close.  Like it's brother jacket, this shirt would stay closed without fasteners - it's that balanced.

I should do a series on my Miyakes. The plaid shirt of 1257 is a staple of my wardrobe. The pants were my only venture into leather and the jacket...was a mistake I should revisit. Maybe in another wax print.....


  1. You nailed it, with both the fabric and the pattern. I didn't think Ankara could work on us women of a certain age, but it looks great. I'm in the throes of a Miyake jones myself, and they're great patterns.

  2. Not often but sometimes the 80s patterns come into their own. Well done and bonus points for cat in the photo (you've both got a tail now!)

  3. That fabric for the jacket is purrfecto! 80s or not, Miyake style never dies.


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