The Pekka Jacket, versions 1 through 4

 I didn't like this jacket at first

And I'm kinda shocked I haven't written about it yet.

I started the first one in July. I was sewing this summer, I really was.

I worked on the first version, using a heavy rayon twill that frays when you think about it. I assumed it was going to be a problematic toile. I adjusted the length and cut down the pockets, but left the original seaming. Which took forEVER to finish. About ten hours of misery.

I finished the seams before I assembled parts because the edges were disintegrating as I handled them. I worked as flat on the table as I could manage.

this was a video that blogger isn't interested in loading today

And I hated it. And my sister didn't want it, so I hung it up in my dining room to stare at. 

And a few weeks later, I wore it to go back to work.

And it works; it's the perfect office jacket. And now it's a TNT.

version two

version three

version four, in wool

Endless seam finishing; hand sewing is not my strong game

Plus adding a neck saving piece (Fun fact: I'm allergic to most wools. Except for mohair)

Most of the construction of this jacket involves interior seam finishes. If you use a fabric that doesn't need much finishing (besides hemming the body, the sleeves and the interior of the pocket) (or let's say you bag a lining for it, which might be quicker), you could be done in an afternoon.

This took all of Frankenstein Meets The Wolfman, Star Trek and two podcasts on Dune.

It's a oversized jacket with cut-on sleeves and a lot of seams, and it's a jacket that I made in fabrics that either ravel or are stiff enough that those seams need hand finishing. Either tacking seams open or wrapping them with bias tape.

https://blanchexblanche.com/en/shop/woman-patterns/jackets-coats-en-2/ready-to-sew-veste-pekka/

Obligatory hair touching pose

So much seam finishing

Version two, made of a quilted grey knit from District Fabric (back when they were still in Seattle) left off the vertical seam that encloses the pocket seam, and gained a armscye and an added sleeve so I can wear a winter coat over it.

The pocket is still deep, and will hold an army of cats and a to-go coffee 'mug'. 

The third version is from similar knit/quilted material that started pilling the moment I pulled the fabric out of the bag. By this point, I'm cavalier about seam finishing. And photos.

Version Four was planned to be the warm work layer, a stylish slanket. I bought double layer wool/rayon sweater fabric from Emma One Sock, and planned ahead to finish seams by trimming them out and basting them over.

It's easier to see the construction details in the wool.

 I had to trim the layers apart in the seam allowances to make the seams flatten out better.

And I bound all the seams with homemade rayon scrap pieced bias tape

This spool is perfect for this job.

I attached the pocket on the outside seam, folded it over, tacked it down, and then you add the back and sew on the collar

Photos that are overexposed are to show details. But you knew that.

The rayon edges shed little blue curls EVERYWHERE. Still cleaning them up.

The seam finishes were pretty much all done on the dining room table, to keep the weight out of my lap and off my wrists, and on Saturday nights watching Svengoolie monster movies on the big television.

Hand sewing is not my forte, and I am trying to improve my skills by stitching as often as I can.

Next time, I want David Sedaris' jacket

What a great riff on blue line kitchen embroidery!